Albero Capovolto

Golfo Aranci, Sardinia, Italy
Book from GBP Book from £149 per night

An idyllic hilltop hideaway with 7 romantic rooms, surrounded by the turquoise beaches of the Costa Smeralda

An idyllic hilltop hideaway with 7 romantic rooms, surrounded by the turquoise beaches of the Costa Smeralda

This blissful hilltop hideaway is a world apart from the daily grind. Peaceful, indulgent and eclectically decorated by debonair Alessandro - the youngest of a Milanese fashion family who spent childhood summers here - it opened in 2014 and has been gaining loyal fans ever since, but the atmosphere remains intimate and exclusive. No pressure or urgency, just a gracious dolce vita of delicious homemade breakfasts, secret white-sand beaches, chilled Vermentino at sunset, and al fresco dinners that celebrate your surroundings.

Life flows seamlessly between two outdoor living spaces – one facing the pool, the other the afternoon sun – which spill onto bougainvillea-framed lawns. Cushion-strewn sofas, vintage fittings and salvaged barber's chairs invite you to relax, while lamps made from colour-matched fabric spools evoke his design background. Seven bedrooms are simple and effortlessly elegant. The master suite in the main house is huge, with its own living room and patio; for more privacy, book the separate garden suite a short walk away, with its own relaxation area under an olive tree.

Highs

  • Only 20 minutes' drive from Olbia airport, itself only 2 hours flight from the UK (London and regional airports)
  • If you tire of beaches, there are Bronze Age citadels, wineries, pastel villages hidden in granite hills
  • From beekeeping to cheese-making, there are a range of classes to try your hand at
  • The swimming pool is really the final piece in this idyllic jigsaw
  • Alessandro is a very thoughtful host, always happy to share his favourite restaurants, boat trips and local highlights

Lows

  • To fully explore the surrounding area and beautiful beaches you’ll need a car
  • It’s a converted family home, so don’t expect hotel-style reception or all-day staff
  • No TVs or radios in the rooms, but this is your chance to switch off

Best time to go

Avoid high season if possible (mid-July through August). Prices soar, temperatures can reach 40C, the roads get clogged and restaurants are tricky to book. May and June are deliciously warm; so are September and early October. However, some restaurants and beach bars close at the end of September.

Our top tips

If you only visit one Nuraghic site, make it La Prisgiona - a 3000-year-old keep of rough-hewn boulders ringed by circular huts where the Bronze-Age inhabitants fashioned terracotta vases and jewellery. Try and coincide with a free guided tour - it will give you a wonderful insight into the place's stories and mysteries - and then follow the shaded path to the Tomb of the Giants (included in the ticket price).

If you only have time for one winery, head to Surrau just east of Arzachena on the road to Porto Cervo. Aside from Vermentinos, their deliciously nectary dessert wine is well worth bringing home.

Great for...

Beach
Eco
Foodie
Great Outdoors
Romantic
  • Boutique Guesthouse
  • 7 bedrooms
  • Restaurant
  • Over 12s only
  • Open all year
  • Outdoor Pool
  • Spa Treatments
  • Beach Nearby
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Car essential
  • Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • WiFi
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
Room:

Rooms

The 7 bedrooms are light, airy and stylish without being OTT. Expect white walls, creamy floors, tiled shower rooms, sliding doors onto the garden and lofty eaves in the superiors and suite. Artful touches include vintage suitcases, salvaged wooden doors and ladders for storage, pretty patchwork quilts on super-comfy beds, and Alessandro's signature fabric-spool lamps. The air-con unit is cleverly disguised as a photographic portrait of the family member after whom the room is named.

Staying in the fabulous Master Suite , with its separate sitting room, walk-in wardrobe and double access to the garden, we felt as if we owned the place. Better still is the newer Garden Suite, set apart in the grounds for complete privacy; its doors open onto rolling countryside - complete bliss. We also loved the 2 Superiors, at one end of the house. The 2 semi-subterranean Standard Rooms are best for more budget-conscious travellers.

Features include:

  • Bathrobes
  • Hairdryer
  • WiFi

Eating

By lawns still glistening from their dawn watering, a beautiful breakfast is laid out on Villeroy & Boch crockery. Home-baked cakes, jam tartlets, fresh ricotta and hard-hitting cappuccini were standouts, but there are cereals, yoghurts and bountiful fruit too. It couldn’t be further from the prepacked-rusks-and-jams of your standard Italian hotel.

The fantastic dinners (served every night except Sundays) pay homage to the traditional dishes of northern Sardinia, accompanied by exquisite local wines. The little candle-lit tables on the terrace overlook the gardens and hills beyond; the atmosphere is warm and intimate. Expect bowls of seafood and tomato linguine and fregola (pea-sized pasta drops) in a clam and mussel sauce that taste high-end yet homemade, which only adds to the family-style dining experience. We were stuffed, and loved every mouthful. Remember to book ahead to avoid missing out!

If you're lucky, your visit will coincide with one of their sunset tastings, where a local producer talks you through their practice; honey, cheeses, wines... the list of goodies goes on.

If you want to venture out for dinner, the team will happily recommend their favourite eateries - with half a dozen within 20 minutes' drive, you'll be spoilt for choice.

Features include:

  • Bar
  • Breakfast
  • Restaurant
Eating:
Activity:

Activities

  • Unwind by the pool, at a yoga session or with a homegrown herb and flower massage in the garden treatment space
  • Take part in one of the classes and workshops, such as beekeeping, cheese-making and Sardinian cookery. Inquire about what's on during your stay!
  • Head for the white-sand beaches - over 50 within an hour's drive, some tucked away down bumpy tracks, other buzzing with bronzing bodies and al fresco restaurants, all lapped by turquoise seas. We loved north-facing Cala Sabina and south-facing Spiaggia Biancha, both about 15 mins' drive (wind direction might be the deciding factor)
  • The team can organise boat trips to remote beaches and the stunning Golfo Aranci and La Maddalena archipelago
  • Explore the awe-inspiring Nuraghic settlements around Arzachena: chunky stone towers (many still intact) and waist-high dwellings from the Bronze Age, with excellent English-speaking guides to bring this fascinating civilisation to life
  • The Vermentino Wine Route runs from Arzachena to Luogosanto, with plenty of opportunities to taste this fresh, fruity white and some powerful reds too; Alessandro recommends Piero Mancini winery
  • Stop for lunch at the charming little village of San Pantaleo, with its flowery piazza, chi-chi boutiques and popular Thursday market, all set amongst granite summits reminiscent of the Alpilles (the Rother guidebook details a couple of great hikes)

    Activities on site or nearby include:

    • Boat trips
    • Hiking
    • Historical sites
    • Horse riding
    • Private guided tours
    • Shopping / markets
    • Snorkelling
    • Swimming
    • Wine tasting
    • Yoga

Kids

Albero Capovolto welcomes children over 12.

Best for:

Teens (over 12)

Kid Friendly:

Location

Albero Capovolto is 12km north of Olbia in northern Sardinia. It’s a 2-2.5-hour drive from Alghero and 3.5-4 hours from Cagliari.

By Air:
Fly into Olbia from April to October (12km), or Alghero and Cagliari all year round. Click on the links below for a list of airlines serving these airports.

By Ferry:
There are sailings from mainland Italy (Genoa, Livorno, Piombino) and from Corsica to northern Sardinia (Olbia, Golfo Aranci, Santa Teresa Gallura); and from further afield (including Marseille, Barcelona) to other Sardinian ports.

From the Airport / Port
You could take a taxi but you'll definitely need transport while you're here so it's best to hire a car from the airport. See our car rental recommendations.

Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.

More on getting to Sardinia and getting around

Airports:

  • Olbia (Costa Smeralda) 12.0 km OLB
  • Alghero (Fertilia) 145.0 km AHO

Other:

  • Beach 2.0 km
  • Shops 4.0 km
  • Restaurant 4.0 km

Our guests' ratings...

Based on 11 independent reviews from i-escape guests

10/10
Room
10/10
Food
10/10
Service
10/10
Value
10/10
Overall

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Rates for Albero Capovolto

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