“A rustic, homespun 10-room B&B in an enchanting village, with stunning views of the western Alpujarra and excellent walking nearby”
Hugging a steep bank of terraces that drop down towards the gorge’s edge, each of Ana’s 10 guest bedrooms has a different floorplan, although they're all quite compact and share the same base elements: all-white walls, beamed ceilings and locally crafted tables, wardrobes and paper appliqué lamps. The spare decorative touches work really well: quilted and embroidered bedspreads from Ronda, perhaps an Indian table or a kilim from Turkey. The spotless presentation speaks of Anne’s quest to get everything ‘just right’.
To one side of the small garden, in the same building as the dining room, Room 1 has a double bed and a single in an adjacent annex; there’s just one small, garden-facing window. Room 2 is in the same building, a small twin with a balconied window looking across the gorge. Down one level, to the south side of the garden, Rooms 3 and 4 are normally joined to create a Family Room with a small double and single separated by a shared shower room. Both have gorge-facing windows which, like all others at Casa Ana, are netted to keep unwanted insects at bay. Rooms 5 and 6 make up a second, very similar Family Room, though this one has a twin and a single room with the same central, shared shower room. Rooms 7 and 8 were amongst the latest to be created and have an extra-special feel, tucked away on a lower terrace with double beds, larger shower rooms and beautiful gorge views framed by French windows. Room 9 is highest of all; a small single which grabs a glimpse of the gorge across the treetops. Room 10 is the largest, with high French windows facing out to the greenery of the garden.
Hand-crafted geometric tiles from a local ceramicist feature in all the shower rooms; in Rooms 7, 8, 9 and 10 they are complemented by eye-catching tadelakt plastering and polished screed floors (Anne drew inspiration from her many trips to Morocco). Expect snowy-white towels, and a bottle of soap made with local plants and herbs. Mattresses are top-notch, as are the soft pillows and cotton sheets.
Breakfast is served between 8.30 and 9.30, though when Casa Ana is running at full tilt you may be asked to choose between an earlier or later sitting. There are 4 inside tables though it’s much nicer, weather permitting, to eat on one of the 2 terrace tables. Freshly squeezed orange juice is de rigeur, as is fruit salad, creamy Greek yoghurt, muesli and cornflakes, local honey and jams, and wholemeal baguettes. Choose between eggs any way you like them or a platter of local cheese, accompanied by a big pot of tea or a cafetière of freshly ground coffee.
It’s also possible to order picnics, put together according to what you like best: filled baguettes, dried fruit and nuts, crudités, homemade cake, fresh fruit and a choice of juices (of the carton variety). All will be neatly packaged up and ready for when you set out on your hike or day of sightseeing.
Whilst Casa Ana operates on a B&B basis most of the time, gourmet dinners are sometimes prepared in the open-plan kitchen/dining room by Wes Somerville, an innovative chef who lives just down the road. They require a minimum of 6 people and the price of a meal varies according to how many guests participate. We didn’t get the chance to sample his cuisine but feedback has been fantastic; nearly all ingredients are market fresh and most of them are organically grown.
If you prefer to dine out then first choice should be Bar Botanic in Capileira, a 15-minute drive away. It offers great-value Spanish and international dishes, and a tapas tasting menu. For more trad’ cuisine, big portions and the warmest of welcomes it’s hard to beat La Fragua in Trevélez, whose cosy dining room has views out across the flat, Berber-style rooftops of the village. We’ve been dining there for more than 20 years and have never been disappointed.
If you’d prefer to walk to dinner you can follow a snaking road round the edge of the barranco to La Mora Luna, where the oven-baked pizzas are excellent and you can try the local mosto wine.
Casa Ana is a child-friendly B&B, though it is certainly not suited for kids of toddling age: most of the garden is given over to flowerbeds and paths, and there are steep drops all around. The guest kitchen would be appreciated by couples with babies (fridge, sink, dishwasher, kettle), whilst older kids might enjoy the local walks, or cross-country skiing in winter. As far as ready-made entertainment goes, don’t expect much apart from that provided, in abundance, by Nature.
Teens (over 12)
There are 3 options for families with one child. Room 1 has a double bed and an in-room single bed, or you can book one of the Family Rooms, which each combine 2 bedrooms via a shared shower bathroom. Rooms 3 and 4 offer a double bedroom and a single, while Rooms 5 and 6 are a twin and a single. Children aged 8+ can occupy a room without their parents (specify when booking).
Babysitting can be arranged, request in advance.
Baby cots can be provided on request.
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
Toddlers are not accepted at Casa Ana due to the hazardous landscape: steps and steep drops are prevalent.