“A simple, no-frills lodge in the remote Aït Bougmez valley - a little-trodden corner of Morocco's stunning High Atlas mountains”
Dar Itrane has 17 rooms, including 3 Family Suites that can sleep up to 4. The nicest rooms, by far, are those which look out across the valley - we recommend asking for one of these at the time of booking.
All are unaffected, homespun and comfortable, with simple screed floors, beamed ceilings and little in the way of fussy decorative detail. The small shower rooms are attractively finished in tadlakt, with small copper basins. Expect just a token bar of soap in the way of toiletries.
We felt that the almost monastic feel of the rooms was just right for a place whose main clientèle is the walking community. And the comfortable duvet-clad beds, with locally-woven colourful bedspreads, ensure that you’ll sleep well even when the temperatures drop below freezing. You should be ready to light candles when the solar-generated electricity gives up at night.
There are 2 dining rooms at Dar Itrane. Of these we much preferred the salle marrocaine with its low tables, corner hearth and cushion-strewn benches. The second dining room, which has higher, wrought-iron tables and chairs, felt a bit too formal and a little soulless. And, of course, when the weather is good enough you can eat out in the patio in the shade of the apple trees.
Remember you're in such a remote place and don’t expect a gourmet extravaganza. Breakfasts are in simple vein: homemade bread and crêpes, local honey, jams, processed cheese and coffee or tea. Picnic lunches (most guests are out exploring the valley and its surroundings during the day) stick to a simple formula of salad and rice, fruit, bread and cheese, perhaps a can of tuna. Something similar is on offer at midday if you’re back at the lodge.
At dinner expect to be rubbing shoulders with your fellow guests if you're dining in the cosy salle marrocaine. Everyone eats the same fixed menu (included in the tariff) which can be tailored if one of the courses doesn’t suit. Starters tend to be vegetarian: vegetable soups, baked tomatoes or some kind of Moroccan salad variant. Main courses are all the typical Berber dishes of this part of the Atlas: couscous, tagines, méchoui or a thick meat stew. For dessert, there might be cake with fruit salad or flambéed bananas.
If you are a wine drinker you'll need to bring your own bottle(s) from Marrakech.
Anybody travelling with kids in Morocco is given an extra warm welcome by locals and this is especially true up in the remoter Atlas villages. There are regular football matches they'll be encouraged to join in with, and mules for them to ride. It would be an amazing experience for any kid (or adult) to see how people live in a place as remote as this.
Children under 2 year olds stay for free, while 2-11 year olds stay for 50% of the adult price when sharing room with an adult. Extra beds and baby cots are available on request.
Children (4-12 years), Teens (over 12)
Cots Available, Extra Beds Available