“A charming and intimate boutique hotel with luxurious rooms and a superb little spa, just outside the colonial city of Salta”
There are 14 rooms divided between the main house and 2 annexes (just 2 minutes’ walk away). Each is decorated in whites and creams, with splashes of Bordeaux red or olive green, and fragranced with fresh flowers. The historic estancia feel is maintained through the whitewashed adobe walls, the shuttered windows and the carefully restored local antiques. The chairs have been re-upholstered in perfect white, with a signature dark red or green blanket thrown over for colour. The feel is quietly luxurious: you’ll find kingsize or twin four-poster or wrought iron beds, sumptuous white towels and robes, and hand-embroidered bed linen with a thread count of 400. There are thoughtful little touches everywhere, from the antique lamps to the aromatic bathroom toiletries. Tiled floors with rush matting and decorative baskets of logs ensure the feel is rural.
In the main house, all rooms have kingsize or twin beds and private bathrooms (the Superior Rooms have bathtubs; the Standard Rooms have a shower only). Rooms 217 and 218 share a roof terrace and have the best views of the garden and the mountains beyond. One of the Superior Rooms is set in an annexe away from the main house, together with the Suites.
The Junior Suites are larger and offer more flexible accommodation, with a main room, a dressing/sitting room, a bathroom, a private terrace and space for an extra bed if you need one. The Suites are more spacious still, with a separate lounge, a bathroom with a bathtub and a separate shower, and a terrace with views of the distant Andes. The Suites and Junior Suites are the only rooms with TVs, minibars and in-room WiFi.
Whichever you choose, you’ll feel like you’re staying in a friend's sumptuous country house, with a very private tucked-away feel. You'll sleep deeply, swathed by the utter silence of this rural setting, and wake to sun streaming through the gauzy white curtains. Throw back your doors and you can admire the vista from your bed.
Breakfast here is worth lingering over: fresh juices, a selection of fruit, yoghurt, delicious homemade breads and pastries and eggs cooked to order, all served with the local delicacy, cayote jam. Guests can eat wherever they like in the house, but our favourite spot was the light and airy garden room, with its wall of windows overlooking the grounds. On summer mornings, you can enjoy your breakfast on the covered terrace outside, with overhanging plants framing the view of the distant mountain ridge.
The hotel’s restaurant, La Table serves authentic, homemade dishes with understated flair. Opened in 2011, we haven’t had the chance to sample the food just yet, but the menu certainly caught our attention. Offerings include traditional meats like Llama Carpaccio and braised baby goat, while vegetable accompaniments have been plucked straight for the hotel garden. Vegetarians are offered good fresh pasta or risotto, and the wine list here is exceptional: we recommend the Mournier Torrontes or Alberto Durand’s 07 Malbec. Dinner is served from 8pm to 11pm, while lunch is available between 12.30pm and 2.30pm daily, and room service is also available.
Afternoon tea is served from 4pm to 7pm, including sandwiches, cakes, scones and jams; nibbling on the dainty food while relaxing on the terrace is a real treat, though we were disappointed that the tea was just tea-bags in cups rather than leaf tea in a pot.
For more varied dining, guests can venture out to one of the many restaurants in Salta, easily reached by an inexpensive 20-minute taxi ride.