Moreno Hotel Buenos Aires

San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina Book from

Reviewed by Ismay Atkins
A sensitively restored Art Deco gem in the beating heart of Buenos Aires, with vast rooms and splendid city views from the roof terrace
Until recently, the trendy area of Palermo Viejo was bagging all the hot new boutique hotels, so it was high time other areas of Buenos Aires got a look-in. In 2007, the San Telmo/Montserrat barrios scored big with this foxy makeover of a 1928 masterpiece designed by German-Hungarian architect Johannes Kronfuss, considered one of the city’s finest examples of Art Deco. Its metamorphosis from office block (home, for decades, to one of the city’s major publishing houses) to glamorous hotel was mercifully respectful of its heritage. Original features include the gorgeous aqua-green entrance tiles, the wrought-iron cage lift, the stained glass in the stairway, and the striking roof cupola.

The first-floor reception has a sultry jazz-age feel, decked out in crushed velvet, Deco furniture and a fantastic retro chandelier. The 39 oversized loft-like rooms, spread over 6 floors, are sleek and modern with well-judged Deco accents, as are the ground-floor restaurant and basement tango salon. A central location makes for easy access to BA’s major sightseeing stops.


  • Successful insertion of contemporary interiors into a heritage building, which harks back to when Buenos Aires was one of the wealthiest and fasting-growing cities in the world
  • The à la mode rooms are incredibly spacious - even the smallest is 39sq.m - making them some of the largest in town in this price bracket
  • The location: a few blocks from the Plaza de Mayo and up-and-coming San Telmo, within walking distance of pedestrianised shopping mecca Calle Florida, and close to the rejuvenated docks of Puerto Madero
  • The gorgeous roof terrace, with sofas overlooking a patchwork of new and old architecture, and glimpses of the Río de la Plata


  • The immediate vicinity can feel dead at weekends, but it's only a 10-minute walk to the atmospheric bars and Sunday antiques market of San Telmo
  • The antique lift is rather noisy; if you're a light sleeper, ask for a room far from it, and high up to avoid street noise
  • Not all rooms have bathtubs, though showers are powerful and spacious
  • A slightly institutional air lingers, perhaps from its previous life as an office block

Best time to go

The weather in Buenos Aires is almost always clear and bright (though sudden downpours are common). October to January marks the spring/summer high season, when it can get hot and humid. The most pleasant months are spring (October-November) and autumn (March-April), when days are sunny and warm but a sweater may be required for the evenings. Activity moves indoors during winter (June-July), when temperatures drop considerably.

Our top tips

Head to the barbecue area on the roof terrace to enjoy a traditional Argentine asado, accompanied by local wines (must be booked 48 hours in advance).

Great for...

Cheap & Chic
City Style
  • = Recommended
  • = Best in region
  • = World favourite
  • Boutique Hotel
  • 39
  • Restaurant and bar (open daily)
  • All ages welcome
  • Open all year
  • Pool
  • Spa Treatments
  • WiFi
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Beach Nearby
  • Off-street Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
  • Concierge Service
Room: Extra Large Room


The 39 rooms are immense by any city’s standards, feeling more like studio apartments than hotel rooms. They go from Large to Extra Large to Extra Extra Large, with even bigger Lofts and Big Lofts on the higher floors, which will buy you 67sq.m of space.

High ceilings and huge windows allow ample natural light, and the décor is minimalist, masculine and classy. The cool Deco lamps, retro alarm clocks and custom-built red-leather sofas or armchairs add to the period feel; but soft Egyptian cotton, free WiFi, electronic keys, cordless phones and foldaway flat-screen TVs bring it bang up-to-date. All rooms have kingsize or twin beds, sitting areas and ample wardrobe and drawer space. The Lofts and Big Lofts also come with coffee- and tea-making facilities, and some have balconies or terraces.

Bathrooms are polished and modern, with dark-wood decking in the power showers (some rooms have a tub instead) and chic circular sinks with shiny silver fittings. Soft white towels, toiletries and hairdryers are provided, and slippers and bathrobes are available on request.

Be sure to ask for one of the higher front-facing rooms, which give glorious views over the domes and turrets of the nearby San Francisco basilica.

Features include:

  • Air conditioning
  • Central heating
  • Cots Available
  • Hairdryer
  • Internet access
  • Minibar/fridge
  • Phone
  • Radio
  • Safe box
  • Satellite tv
  • Slippers and bathrobes (on request)
  • Terrace
  • Toiletries
  • WiFi
  • Wifi internet


The hotel's ritzy restaurant and bar, Aldo's, occupies the ground floor and is open from 11am to midnight for brunch, lunch, afternoon tea, drinks and dinner. It was created by sommelier Aldo Graziani and its 500-bottle cellar is central to the concept, with dishes designed to complement the wines available. We have yet to sample the fare ourselves, but we've heard good things about the international cuisine (truffle risotto, veal milanese, pan-fried salmon) and jazzy ambiance.

Breakfast is served on the roof terrace between 7-11am and is a more scaled-down affair, consisting of toast, fruit, yoghurts and pastries. If the weather allows, you can take it up on the roof terrace and gaze over Buenos Aires as you eat.

The streets immediately surrounding the hotel don’t throw up many good options for eating out, but just a few blocks south are the lively bars and restaurants of San Telmo. Check out Brasserie Petanque (Defensa 596) for well executed French bistro food, El Desnivel (Defensa 855) for a rowdy traditional parrilla (steak house), and super-swanky 647 Dinner Club (Tacuarí 647) for cocktails and modern Argentine food.

Features include:

  • Bar
  • Minibar/fridge
  • Restaurant
  • Restaurants nearby
  • Room service
  • Vegetarian menu
Eating: Aldo\\\'s


  • Go sightseeing: the Moreno is just 2 blocks from the city’s focal point, the palm-strewn Plaza de Mayo. It's home to the presidential palace (the Casa Rosada), the Cabildo and the imposing cathedral - and is the logical starting point for a tour of the city
  • The Plaza de Mayo is also the site of a weekly protest by the Mothers of Plaza de Mayo, who congregate here every Thursday at 2pm to remember the ‘disappearance’ of their children, abducted (and usually killed) by the Argentine government during the ‘Dirty War’ (1976-1983). Be sure to time your trip with this moving gathering
  • Shop on the buzzing pedestrianised street of Calle Florida, located just a few blocks away, or explore the trendy bars and boutiques in Palermo
  • Browse the Sunday antiques market on Plaza Dorrego, 8 blocks south in San Telmo
  • Head to the MALBA gallery to see an excellent collection of modern Latin American art
  • Attend an opera or classical performance at Teatro Colón, a stunning Belle Epoque building

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Historical sites
  • Museums / galleries
  • Nightlife
  • Shopping / markets
  • Tango
  • Theatre


The ultra-spacious rooms make the Moreno a good option for families. Cots for under-2s can be added to all rooms free of charge, and most can take extra beds for a supplement. However, the busy narrow streets around the hotel may be challenging terrain with buggies and the area has few open spaces for kids to let off steam. Babysitters can be booked via reception.

Family friendly accommodation:

Cots Available


Babysitting is available by arrangement.

Baby equipment:

Baby cots are available on request.

Remember  baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking

Kid Friendly:

Our guests' ratings...


{{ review.firstName }}{{ review.countryName ? ', '+ review.countryName : '' }},

Rates for Moreno Hotel Buenos Aires