Diving at Havelock
For years the waters of the Andaman Islands - uniquely rich in marine and coral life - have been virtually unexplored, with fewer than 100 divers per year.
Many islands are surrounded by a fringing reef, often several hundred metres wide and separated from the shore by a lagoon of similar width. There are sloping reef walls and coral pinnacles or knolls, suitable for both divers or snorkellers, and divers can also swim through undulating hills of volcanic lava. However, the last El Niño caused extensive coral bleaching, and they are only just starting to grow back.
Large pelagics are plentiful, including schools of hammerheads out at sea, as well as grey, whitetip, nurse and leopard sharks closer to shore. Enormous manta rays are often seen. Most dive trips visit the 15 or so documented sites around Havelock Island, and are two-tank outings for certified divers; night dives are possible if numbers warrant.
- The Wall, right outside the resort’s ‘front door’ and suitable for all levels, is a vertical wall dropping to depths of 50m, from a channel around 10m deep. Expect coral fish, lion fish, scorpion fish, napoleons, trevally, barracuda, tuna, sting rays, snappers and triggerfish.
- Barracuda City is a sloping coral / rock zone going down to a 25m sandbed; occasional currents make it suitable only for advanced divers. In addition to those above, surgeon fish, jackfish and sea turtles have been spotted here.
- Aquarium is a rock / coral slope down to 14m, giving divers of all abilities the full range of marine life: schools of humpback parrot fish, potato groupers and occasional dugongs, in addition to those above.
- Lighthouse is a large 9-18m site with swathes of soft and hard coral, sea cucumbers and a huge variety of fish life; it\'s a perfect night dive for all abilities.
- Sea Fan City lives up to its name, with a healthy growth of seafans among boulders at 30-34m. Pelagic and predatory fish roam; the depth and currents (it’s in a channel between two islands) make it the preserve of advanced divers.
- Jackson & Pilot Reefs are both near Havelock, and both easy dives where coral ledges and blocks drop to sandy bottom around 10-16m. Moray eels, giant groupers and occasional turtles complement the usual marine life.
Expeditions further afield can be planned, including the Lower Andamans (Cinques Passage and Little Andaman), the Middle Andamans (Button Islands, Campbell Shoal, Minerva Ledge, Invisible Island and Interview Island) and the remote volcanic islands of Barren and Narcondam. Almost all are unmapped, and several were explored by Jacques Cousteau and Paul Lees in his book Dive Guide to Thailand. Fast dive boats get you there in 1-2 hours, or you can go overnight (with government approval and some determination). This is a once-in-a-lifetime dive experience, and the sooner you do it, the more breathtaking and pioneering it will be!
Conditions are fine from mid-November to mid-May; February and March are optimal. Occasional winds and small cyclones hit in November and December, and changing winds in April herald the monsoon season, which hits from May. Water temperature remains within 28-31C, and, though wetsuits are rarely necessary, 3mm shorties are available. Visibility is typically 8-20m, best offshore and in the marine parks, and worst after rains, waves and upwelling. There is a slow perennial current to the south west; on exposed sites, tidal currents occur in different directions, sometimes strongly, so dives must be well timed. Most dives are at defined spots, only a few are drift. Lion and scorpion fish can cause minor injuries; very rarely, jellyfish cause extreme pain.
Equipment:
Barefoot has a retrofitted fishing boat converted to dive use; there’s only air-diving (no nitrox or trimix). Shore dives feature in the courses. Whichever vessel you use, check it has oxygen and a first aid kit.