“Ultra traditional family-run hotel with rustic deluxe rooms, in beautiful countryside between Arezzo and Cortona”
The 17th-century farm, with its priests' house and stables, has since been restored to offer 10 comfortable rooms and a pool-with-a-view. Still home to the Protti family, who live upstairs, it’s all brick arches, white-wash, terracotta and old timbers - traditional to the point of old-fashioned, and run like a well-oiled machine. Neat paths meander between stone buildings through gardens of fig trees, jasmine and potted geraniums; there are lawns trimmed with rosemary. And you can watch the sunset from wicker chairs on a terrace overlooking the green slopes of the Chio Valley. Heaven indeed.
- Peaceful, secluded and very beautiful Tuscan setting
- Owned and run by a delightful family
- Well-kept colourful gardens with tubs of bright flowers; doors framed by jasmine, olive, fig and cypress trees
- Breakfast is a feast
- Exceptional attention to detail - from the crisp bedlinen and fruit and flowers in the rooms to the evening turn-down service
- A cool pool on a lawned terrace overlooking glorious open countryside
- Modernists, fashionistas and jet-setters may find the pace slow and the décor old-fashioned
- No television (a high, if you want to get away from it all!)
- The road between Polvano and Castiglion Fiorentino: beware of hairpin bends and Italian motorcyclists doing an Evil Knievel on hump-back bridges
- The restaurant does not serve lunch and the nearest eateries are a 15-minute drive
Best time to go
- Boutique Hotel
- Restaurant and bar (open daily)
- Children aged 6 and over only
- Open all year
- Outdoor Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Beach Nearby
- Off-street Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
Rooms are spread between the farmhouse and the Canonica (a converted priests' house). They come in a variety of shapes and sizes but they are basically of the same style, each named after a flower (Clematis, Rosa Antica, Orchidea - denoted by flower-sprigged straw hats hung on the walls). All have beamed ceilings, shutters at the windows, white cotton bedspreads, wrought iron headboards, kilims on glazed terracotta floors, white-washed walls, hand-painted doors and matching furniture. The look is classic Tuscan farmhouse - simple, uncluttered, hand-crafted – but with an extra layer of comfort.
As in most old farmhouses, some of the rooms are a little dark, with small windows and sombre colours, but dark means cool - though they are all air conditioned except for the Double Charming. Each is provided with mineral water, fresh fruit and flowers (there was a huge vase of fragrant longi lilies in our room); some have sunny aspects and lovely views. The bathrooms (most just have showers) are clean and white-tiled, with bathrobes and L’Erbario Toscano toiletries.
Our choice would be sunny Suite Deluxe Peonia (in the Canonica, with a little living room and views of the hills) or the spacious Junior Suite Superior.
Please note all rooms are individually decorated so the photographs shown indicate the standard of accommodation for each level, but the hotel cannot guarantee you getting a specific room within each category.
- Air conditioning
- Central heating
Housed in the former stables - which in traditional farmhouses were beneath the living spaces - the restaurant is all low beams, brick arches and old-fashioned rise-and-fall lamps. Tables dressed in white or flower-print linen spill out onto a terrace where, under a pillared loggia, diners can enjoy the view while tucking into home-cooked food, usually delivered by Luigi dressed in his finest. Testament to the quaint last-century approach are the His & Hers menus – she gets the one without the prices.
Breakfast (served on the terrace, weather permitting) is a sensational feast of cold meats, cheeses, pastries, breads, natural yoghurt with fresh fruit (blackberries, blueberries, strawberries – whatever’s in season), squeezed orange juice, and yellow (and I mean yellow) scrambled eggs.
Unfortunately the restaurant doesn't offer lunch, but that motivates you to drive into nearby Polvano and have a wander round.
Dinner begins at 7.30pm, kicking off with glass of Prosecco on the terrace, followed by a 2 or 3-course set menu or choice of a la carte dishes. The selection is big on risotto, but also offers simple pastas and sauces, Tuscan bean soup, Pienza Pecorino cheeses (with chestnut honey), seasonal salads and Chianana beef. The food is rustic, wholesome and served with homemade bread (made in an old-fashioned bread oven) and olive oil. Note that dinner must be pre-booked by 12pm on the day.
For a change of scene, or menu, head into Castiglion Fiorentino (8km) where there are 2 little restaurants and a pizzeria.
- Hang out on the terrace and enjoy the gardens. In terms of peace and quiet, this place is the business
- Go for a cooling swim in the pool-with-a-view, play golf or tennis (there are facilities within a short drive), go sailing or cycling around Lake Trasimeno (45km away), or hike along scenic tracks over the rolling hills around Polvano
- Take a stroll round Castiglion Fiorentino, a walled medieval hilltown topped by the 12th century Chiesa di Sant’Angelo (a 15-minute drive). Linger at the Caffe degli Ignoranti on the Piazza del Municipio, which has fab views of the Val di Chiana and the foothills of the Appenines, plus occasional live music
- You're midway between historic Cortona (20km) - the Etruscan museum (wonderful 6th century jewellery), the Diocesan museum (medieval religious paintings) and the Duomo (more paintings) are the highlights - and gorgeous Arezzo (25km), with its magnificent Piazza Grande and medieval churches
- Head up the A1 autostrada to Florence (80km) or head south to Perugia (60km) or across the hills to the stunning hilltown of Gubbio (70km)
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Historical sites
- Museums / galleries