“A delightful hamlet of 13 restored stone cottages, in a secluded valley by Crete's southeast coast”
The 13 tiny stone houses ooze rustic charm. Unlock your stable door with the massive iron key and you’ll find yourself in a cosy sitting-dining room built against the rockface. They are simply but brightly furnished, with white-washed walls, beamed ceilings and mauve-striped bedspreads (the inbuilt sofas double up as extra beds). Off this lies a small kitchen, a bedroom and a simple bathroom (curtained shower, hairdryer). It may not be the height of luxury, but it is clean, well-kept, tranquil and extremely cosy. And the beautifully tended gardens around add a splash of colour and softness to the views.
The houses are divided into three types; you should specify which type you prefer (but the actual house is normally allotted later, not at the time of booking).
Studios are the smallest, with a single open-plan space incorporating bedroom, sitting area and kitchen corner.
Small cottages (or apartments) have a double bedroom and a separate kitchen / sitting room, normally with one inbuilt sofa which can double up as an extra bed. They would suit a couple with child. #7 has plenty of charm and is very near the swimming pool – which could be a plus or a minus.
Large cottages (or apartments) are similar but with two (or more) sofabeds, thus suiting families. House #6 has a sitting-dining room with double and single sofabeds, a separate double bedroom, 2 bathrooms and a shady sitout at the back. House #11 has, besides its double bedroom, bathroom and outside patio, a decent-sized kitchen-diner separated from the sitting room (2 sofabeds) by an arch growing out of the living rock.
All rooms have air-conditioning (cold or hot air), solar-and immersion-heated hot water, mozzie screens on the windows (which weren’t totally effective during our visit), a phone, an iron and a hairdryer. There is also free WiFi in all the cottages.
There is sometimes evidence of damp, so bring a warm jumper if visiting in April or October, and check there are spare blankets. Be aware these are not full service rooms - there is cleaning and linen changing every few days but guests are expected to dispose of garbage in the bins provided; it will not be collected daily.
The cottages are self-catering, with small, simply-equipped kitchens and a dining area. There’s a little electric cooker (2 rings, mini-oven and grill), a fridge (with ice tray – very important!), a kettle, toaster, basic tools (saucepans, corkscrew, grater, lemon-squeezer, knives) and enough cutlery and crockery for 2-4, depending on the house. There’s a table inside, but chances are you’ll be eating outside on the private terrace – each cottage has one, but some are prettier than others.
It’s certainly adequate for a breakfast of fresh yoghurt and delicious thyme honey (bought from the cleaning lady!); or farm-fresh eggs (bought from reception) fried on toast; or a crunchy Greek salad and feta for lunch; or even a simple pasta dish for supper (there’s a cookery book if you need inspiration).
For anything more complex you’ll have to drive 1km to the coast (or walk), which offers a range of tavernas, restaurants and cafés in and around Makriyialos. Olympio café serves good snacks and pizzas; or check out the Italian restaurant in neighbouring Analipsi.
For delicious, unfancy home cooking we recommend Kaliatzina taverna, slightly further afield in Koutsouras village (ask Vangelis to draw you a sketch map). Here, on a tamarisk-shaded courtyard overlooking the sea, 2 sisters (plus the obligatory yiayia) serve you whatever they’ve cooked that afternoon – stuffed tomatoes and peppers, arni avgolemono (juicy baked lamb in and egg and lemon sauce), beef stifado (stewed with onions), all washed down with a small carafe of local wine.
For a bizarre dinner experience, drive to Kalo Nero (20 minutes east) and you can eat at the foot of an illuminated cave, the ‘Dragon’s Cave’.
Children of all ages are welcome and this is a great place for them, with beaches nearby and wild nature on your doorstep.
Toddlers (1-4 years), Children (4-12 years)
The larger cottages can sleep 4-5, with one double bedroom and two sofabeds in the sitting room; smaller cottages work well for a smaller family, with a sofabed in the living/kitchen area. Extra beds are also available.
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
The basic self-catering cottages have everything you need for families meals (but no microwave or blender). Tavernas, restaurants and takeaways are a short amble away.
The pool isn't fenced and there are steps around that could be tricky for toddlers. You can buy everything you need in the village (1km walk), including nappies, beach toys and baby food. A doctor can be called out to the villas if necessary.