Ajia Hotel

A historic waterside mansion transformed into a contemporary boutique hotel offering fab rooms, a terrace restaurant and cool bar

On the Asian shore of the Bosphorus, this uber cool hotel is a slick conversion of a 19th century yali – the palatial summer mansions of the Ottoman elite. The location is a little off the beaten track (a half-hour drive, north of Sultanahmet, in a green sub-urban village best known for local yoghurt), but that was, and still is, the general idea: to provide an escape from the heat and hurly-burly of the old city. And this place, all stylish modernism and crisp clean lines, has helped make out-of-town Istanbul fashionable again.

Behind an original façade (a dazzling white confection of neo-classical pillars and pediments), the interior is a geometry of dark wood and creamy marble, glass and steel, light and shade. There is a vast lobby, almost bare but for arum lilies, white orchids, off-white chairs and sunlight; there is a romantic restaurant right on the waterfront; and 16 rooms on three floors (most of which have wonder-ful views). A private boat waits to ferry you across the blue water, but, really, why go anywhere?

Highs

• A grandstand view of life on the Bosphorus waterfront – an endless procession of fishing boats and ferries, tankers and cruise ships en route from the Marmaris to the Black Seas
• Glamorous dinners on the terrace at sunset
• A skilful combo of historic architecture and contemporary design
• Light spacious rooms in soothing shades of neutral

Lows

• It’s a long hike to Old Stamboul, the hub of the city, though the location is a plus for those who want to see its cleaner, greener side
• Popular with party throwers, it can be a little rowdy on the terrace at weekends
• The air conditioning is not as efficient as it should be