Albabenshal

Expect breathtaking simplicity at this beautiful mud-brick hotel, which is built into the crumbling walls of the town’s ancient citadel

Siwa is dominated by the shali, an 800-year-old mud-brick citadel that rises in the middle of town. In 1926 three days of strong rain dissolved much of it, but still it stands in eerier magnificence, a mighty sight in a fabulous town. This cool little eco-hotel is built into the shali’s ancient walls. Both buildings are made of mud brick. Some bricks date to the 13th century, others to the 21st. It is hard to tell the difference.

You can see for yourself from the big roof terraces, where all hotel life gathers. You eat up here with the shali towering above you and the town square humming below. Floor rugs and cushioned sofas wait for those who need them, while an open fire burns at night. Wander about below deck and find passageways designed to draw in the breeze, a courtyard in which to escape the sun, a sitting room built into the hill. Rooms are excellent – beautifully simple, extremely satisfying – with whitewashed walls, raw palm ceilings, camelhair blankets atop crisp white linen, tiny windows to keep you cool.

Highs

• The architecture is wild, stripped down to its bare essentials, quite serene
• Bedrooms have the Midas touch: simple, authentic, easy on the eye
• Your alarm clock: cockerels, donkeys, the call to prayer
• The roof terraces from which you can cast your eye across town
• The position built into the side of the ancient shali is hard to beat

Lows

• Siwa is a dry town, so bring your own alcohol (it’s OK to do so)
• The water in your shower will take time to run hot and sometimes turns lukewarm
• Some noise from the town will filter up, but many guests find this pleasant
• This is a beautifully crafted hotel, but if you want five star luxury with staff on hand to attend to your every whim then it’s is not for you