Atzaro

A seriously hip rural retreat where the A-list ladies lunch, this 21-room hotel is the perfect place to join the party

First impressions matter – and at Atzaro our first impression was excellent. We arrived at night, driving along rough tracks to reach the secluded hotel, then walked down candlelit steps, past leafy flowerbeds, a floodlit lily pond and Buddha statues to reach the 300-year-old finca. Crickets were chirruping and the air was rich with aromas: oranges from the grove in which the hotel sits; lavender, thyme and rosemary from the flowerbeds; jasmine and geraniums.

Inside, things were colourful and cosy – our room a lovely blend of orange, golds and bronzes, with wood beamed ceilings and thick stone walls. By day, we discovered gorgeous grounds – the stone pathways lined with palm trees, pink bougainvillea and objets d’art. The whole place exuded calm and the Balinese spa made you desperate to don a white waffle robe and settle in for some pampering. We were seeing Ibiza in late October but could well imagine the outdoor beds and many chill-out areas being filled with the bronzed and the beautiful come summer. Basically, it was cool with a capital C.

Highs

• Everywhere you look there’s something to admire: stone statues, bronze Buddhas, a wooden bench shaped like a crocodile, a totem pole
• Vast bathtubs big enough for two and a whole host of luxurious toiletries, including a complimentary perfume
• Fantastic food – and lots of it
• Lots of secluded nooks to relax with a partner, with daybeds scattered everywhere
• A 6-temple Balinese spa offering massages, beauty treatments, yoga classes, an aerobic pool, sauna, juice bar... if that doesn't cure your post-clubbing aches, nothing will

Lows

• Noise carries in the finca so bring earplugs if you’re a light sleeper
• Though delicious, the menu only changes seasonally and you’d feel limited if you were staying a week
• High season had taken its toll in places – some of the seat cushions were stained and the in-room bathrobes tatty, although they have since been replaced
• The WiFi doesn't work in every room