Baoussala

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Essaouira, Morocco


A home with a big heart, hidden away in a eucalyptus grove near Essaouira - a genuine taste of that fabled real Morocco

Reviewed by Guy Hunter-Watts

Baoussala, Morocco, Overview
 

BAOUSSALA - REVIEW

Head south from Essaouira towards the surfing beaches of Sidi Kaouki, then cut seawards along a dusty track past errant donkeys, tiny farmsteads and waving children. Arriving at Baoussala will become a treasured memory, as will meeting Dominique and her extended Moroccan family.

You’d never guess the pinky-salmon, crenellated walls of this kasbah-inspired building are less than a decade old. Antique window grilles, mature trees and a walled garden with rambling jasmines, roses and bougainvilleas suggest a much older building - enhanced when you step into its embracing, inner courtyard. The 6 bedrooms and suites aren’t grand but have been decorated with masses of TLC by Dominique whose artistic, gentle touch permeates every corner. This delightful guesthouse has the feel of home and sanctum, with an accent on authenticity and simplicity. Come to make new Moroccan friends, eat wholesome food, walk barefoot through dunes, hear Gnaoua music and enjoy being a long way away from the mundane.
     
HIGHS

  • Dominique is one of the few ex-pats we met living in Morocco who treats her staff as if they were family
  • Masses of intimate sitting areas in the courtyard and gardens
  • Exceptional cooking of the slow variety, with a genuine commitment to using only fresh, local produce
  • The 6 bedrooms and suites are quiet and comfortable
  • Virtually all electricity and hot water is solar-generated
  • Music is a part of this spirit - impromptu concerts by local musicians in the sheltered courtyard often occur
  LOWS

  • You're not quite on the beach, which is 5km away through the dunes, nor in Essaouira, which is 15km away - but the rural setting is magically tranquil
  • The house is a little shabby in places, though that's part of the wholesome feel
  • The 3km track leading to the house is bumpy and would be an ordeal after rain
  • The remoteness of Baoussala means that you will eat in house, but the food is really excellent and fairly priced, too
  • Not for the animal-shy, as Dominique’s dog and cat are an integral part of the scene
     
Print Whole Report 
Name Baoussala Location Essaouira, Atlantic Coast
Type Rural Guesthouse: 6 rooms Country Morocco
Price Guide Dbl: €60-85, BB Open All year

DISTANCES Airport: 180km Nearest Shops: 3km Nearest restaurant: 3km Beach: 6km



 
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