Brittany
Why go?
Wild rocky coasts buffeted by Atlantic rollers, spectacular sandy
beaches, half-timbered medieval towns, mysterious megalithic
monuments, lace-bonneted festivals that echo its Celtic past
– Brittany has it all. Its 3500km of coastline range from
wonderful rose-granite cliffs in the north to the glorious sweep of
Morbihan bay in the south, passing tiny fishing villages and
impressive walled cities en route. Apart from swimming and
beach-combing, you can go surfing, windsurfing, canoeing and
sailing; and parents will appreciate the supervised children's play
areas. Hikers will be swept away by the coastal trails, including
the GR34 from Mont St Michel to Port Navalo and the Sentier des
Douanniers towards Vannes. There's plenty of cycling (on
disused railways) and horse-riding (through the dunes), a Route
des Megaliths around Carnac, atmospheric medieval districts in
Quimper, Vannes and Dinan, not to mention fantastic pancakes and
cider across the region.
When the Romans finally tamed its seafaring Celtic tribes they
called it Armorica ('land of the sea'). Place names like St
Malo and St-Brieuc recall the Celtic holy men who, in the Dark
Ages, crossed the Channel to set up Christian communities, founding
Brittany ('little Britain'). They were later turned into
semi-legendary saints, honoured nowadays at festive pardons,
or religious pilgrimages. Legends of King Arthur and the Holy Grail
crossed the Channel too, as you can see in the Forest of
Brocéliande. Isolated from the rest of France – not
until 1532 did Brittany reluctantly become a province of France
– the region developed a culture of its own.
Despite the best efforts of centralising bureaucrats, it’s
managed to hang on to remnants of its language and heritage. And
that, along with its mesmerising land- and seascapes, is its charm
today.
With such beauty, it’s no surprise however that in summer
Brittany’s coast is a magnet for holidaymakers. The roads can
get congested in July and August, and the more popular villages
swarm with tourists. But it only takes a bit of effort and
imagination to find a quiet cove, and inland you will always be
able to find secluded rivers and hills. Come in spring or autumn
and you can have miles of sandy beach to yourselves.
Also the weather, of course, is not as reliable as the Med, and the
sea can be cold outside summer. It can be hard finding stylish
accommodation (hence, perhaps, the numerous campsites), though
we're doing our best to rectify that. And keep your fingers crossed
that another oil tanker doesn't spill its contents onto the Breton
shore.