Boutique Hotels in Cambodia

Why go?

Since the decline of the Khmer kingdom 500 years ago, Cambodia hasn’t had the easiest ride. Thai and Vietnamese kings have fought over it, French imperialists have ruled it, the American military spilled over its borders during the Vietnam War and Pol Pot decimated it.

Thirty years on and life has finally changed for the better. This is quite some achievement, a testament to the country’s resilient inhabitants, who prefer to look to a positive future than to linger in the past. Borders have opened, tourists are pouring in, and you can stand on the streets of Siem Reap and listen to the daily cacophony of men with hammers building hotels. It is a perfect metaphor of 21st-century Cambodia; here is a country that is forging itself anew, fuelled by a positive determination to make the most of its myriad opportunities.

Although tourism is still in its infancy, those who make the journey discover one of the great wonders of the world at Angkor, the single biggest religious monument on our planet. Now a UNESCO World Heritage site (and how could it be anything else?), this 12th-century temple complex stretches 85km in one direction and 50km in the other. Over 500 temples, many still in the grip of impenetrable jungle, reveal an advanced culture to rival any other of the era. But there’s more to Cambodia than Angkor, and clever tourists are stating to spread their wings, south to the beaches of Sihanoukville, west to languid Kep, east to the Mekong at Kratie, inland to the Tatai River, and down to pulsating Phnom Penh, a capital city in the midst of reinventing itself.

Any Downsides?

Corruption is endemic in Cambodia (not surprisingly, if you consider that a tour guide can earn $20 a day and a policeman $40 a month). On the whole, this is a Cambodian problem, though if your passport is stolen, you may need to slide a $10 note across the table in the police station. Robbery is also a problem: we had a camera stolen on the streets of Phnom Penh at 9.30am on a Sunday – two men on a motorbike drove past and snatched it – so keep hold of handbags and cameras when on the streets, and don’t leave any valuable items – mobile phones, wallets, passports – openly on view or on tables in cafés. Store what you don’t need for the day in safes in hotel bedrooms; they’re easy to operate, make sure you use them. Finally, don’t walk the streets at night.

What's where?

• Kep & Coast: Long neglected, Cambodia's coast is coming into its own; visit the languid beach town of Kep, offshore Rabbit Island, and the stunning Tatai River Read More >>
• Phnom Penh: A city with a tragic past but a promising future. Come to pay your respects, and admire old French-Indonesian architecture and walk by the river Read More >>
• Siem Reap: The base for your Angkor Wat expeditions, this friendly town is increasingly popular. Visit Tonle Sap Lake while you're here Read More >>