Cambodia
Getting there
There are no direct flights from Europe, America or Australasia, so
you'll have to fly into a regional hub (e.g. Bangkok or Kuala
Lumpur) and take a connecting flight.
Flights in and out of Phnom Penh
Thai Airways and
Bangkok Air fly from
Bangkok.
Silk Air and
Jetstar fly from Singapore.
Vietnam Airlines fly from
Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
Malaysia Airlines fly
from Kuala Lumpur.
Lao Airlines fly from
Vientiane.
Dragonair flies from Hong
Kong.
Flights in and out of Siem Reap
Bangkok Air flies from
Bangkok.
Vietnam Airlines flies
from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi.
Malaysia Airlines and
Air Asia from Kuala Lumpur.
Silk Air from
Singapore.
Lao Airlines from Vientiane,
Luang Prabang and Pakse.
back to topGetting Around
BY DOMESTIC FLIGHTS
Siem Reap Airways operate
between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. No other internal flights are
currently available.
BY AIRPORT TRANSFER
Arrange transfers with your hotel (they are sometimes included in
the price) and they’ll pick you up at the airport. Buses do
not operate at Cambodia’s airports. You might find a waiting
taxi or tuk-tuk, but stories of overcharging from airports are
common.
BY TUK-TUK AND MOTO
In the towns and cities tuk-tuks are the way to get about. They are
not in short supply and hang out at all hotels and tourist spots,
so you won’t have to wait. You can hire tuk-tuks for the day
(about $8-$20 depending on the distance covered), not a bad idea in
Angkor. Be careful at night if you hail an unknown tuk-tuk in the
city, as a tiny minority have been known to rob tourists; if you
take a tuk-tuk to dinner and ask him to wait, he’ll drive you
back to your hotel and charge about $4. Motos (small motorbikes)
will whisk you up the road, but won’t give you a helmet.
Always agree the price before setting off.
BY BICYCLE
Hire bikes – they’re everywhere and a great way to get
about, especially in Siem Reap and Angkor, where you can follow
your nose. Bike hire is sometimes free at the hotel; otherwise it
costs $1-$2 a day.
BY BUS
Buses run between the big cities; take a tuk-tuk to the central
station and enquire. They are cheap, but not that comfortable and
don’t get anywhere quickly, although they do show you the
countryside and its towns.
The one bus route which is popular and reliable is from Phnom
Penh to Siem Reap: National Route #6 is paved all the way, and
the journey is faster than it used to be (5-6 hours). In Siem Reap
the Chong Kov Sou bus station is located near Phsar Leu (the 'Upper
Market') about 2km west of the centre; in Phnom Penh, buses from
different companies depart from different stations.
BY BOAT
This is a common way of getting around, especially in the wet
season when some roads flood.
It's possible to take a speedboat from Phnom Penh to Siem
Reap via Tonle Sap lake (typically 4-6 hours), but choose your
vessel with care: the crossing can be rough, the boats overcrowded,
and the lifebelts non-existent.
One boat we can recommend is the Izabella, operated by
Compagnie Fluviale du
Mekong. It leaves Phnom Penh at 7am and reaches Siem Reap at
6pm, returning the next day. On the way it makes stops at Koh Chen
(silversmiths' island), Kampong Tralach (Buddhist vihara or
monastery), Kampong Chnang (fishing village) and Chnok Tru
(floating village).
If you have time, consider one of the slower boat cruises
(2-3 days) between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. These are much more
civilised.
We recommend the Toum Tiou, also operated by
Compagnie Fluviale du
Mekong, which runs from July to March (the river is too low
from April to June). It takes 3 days, stopping overnight in the
fishing towns of Kompong Chhnang and Kompong Luong, with
accommodation in 10 air-conditioned ensuite double cabins, plus a
restaurant and sundecks.
If you want total flexibility, you can charter a boat, such
as the beautiful 27-metre Paneman which comes recommended by
La Residence. The wooden vessel has a huge sitting
area, 1 bedroom, kitchen, toilets, shower, a quiet engine running
on Biodiesel, and its own electricity supply. It normally tours
around Tonle Sap.
If you want to cruise in style along the Mekong and Tonle
waterways in a replica of a colonial river steamer, offering
luxurious cabins and smart-casual dining, try
Pandaw, which owns 4 such vessels.
When To Go
Cambodia is a tropical country, meaning it is warm all year, but
there are still 3 distinct seasons:
Dry season: November-February
The best time to visit, with temperatures in the mid to high 20's
celsius (but be prepared for the occasional chillier night). It is
also the most popular season, and the most expensive - Christmas
and New Year, particularly.
Hot season: March-May
Humidity and temperatures rise steadily, peaking in the mid 30's in
Phnom Penh, which makes the middle of the day an uncomfortable time
for doing anything active. Be prepared for lots of dust, too, which
all turns to mud in...
Rainy season: June-October
The southwest monsoon from the Gulf of Thailand drenches the whole
of Cambodia. Dirt roads can become impassable and some areas flood,
especially in September-October. But in Angkor the mornings are
usually dry and you can have the temples to yourself, if you don't
mind holing up in the afternoon, and being flexible on overland
travel (or just using flights).