Casa das Penhas Douradas
Serra da Estrela, Portugal
A chic, tranquil and cosy mountain hotel with glorious views, excellent hiking and a heated pool and spa
Picture yourself waking to crisp blue skies, fresh mountain air and
the staggering vistas of the Serra da Estrela. Slip out of bed for
a hearty breakfast, then lace up your walking boots and head out
for the day. Hike through glacial valleys, past ancient mountain
villages and the vast granite tors (penhas) which give the
area its name. Swim in natural lakes, picnic by waterfalls, then
head back through the verdant scenery for a well-deserved afternoon
tea. You're 1550m above sea level, hidden in majestic wilderness
and way off the beaten track - yet you're only 2 hours from Porto
airport.
Yet whilst the landscape is rugged, this boutique hotel has
manicured, contemporary good looks. There are squashy sofas and
woodburners in the lounges, 18 swish bedrooms, and a
heated pool, sauna and spa to ease aching muscles. Floor-to-ceiling
windows maximise the glorious views and the polished lacquer walls
give the hotel a Scandinavian feel. This is a year-round
destination: come in spring for mountain flowers, summer for
perfect walking conditions, autumn for blankets of red-gold leaves
or winter to go snow-shoeing and skiing.
Reviewed by Guy Hunter Watts
Last updated 30 November 2011
Highs
- Staff are super friendly and kind: when we revisited this hotel in 2011, they couldn't have been nicer
- Stylish rooms have a surpisingly modest price tag: you get a whole lot of comfort for your euros
- Owner João is passionate about the region and has mapped out trails for various levels of agility: from gentle 2-hour strolls right through to full day hikes
- Fab food: menus showcase regional specialities and the presentation is worthy of the smartest restaurant
- Great for outdoorsy kids: tors for hide-and-seek, caves to explore and lakes to swim or kayak in
Lows
- It can get pretty cold at night off season, but the heated pool, indoor fires and cosy rooms will keep you snug
- The nearest restaurant is 6km away, so if you stay for a week be prepared to eat in every night or drive
- You should be prepared for some cloud or rain at any time of year: after all, you are almost a 1,000 feet higher than the top of Ben Nevis!
