Casa Higueras

Posh 1930s mansion turned boutique hotel, overlooking the sea in the culturally captivating, quixotic city of Valparaíso

Valparaíso was a stopover for 19th-century ships travelling between Atlantic and Pacific ports via the Strait of Magellan. European immigrants built grand mansions on steep hills and the city became renowned for its bohemian blend of ethnic traditions. After decades of neglect following the opening of the Panama Canal, 'Valpo' was named a UNESCO World Heritage site and is busy reclaiming its mojo.

Atop Cerro Alegre ('Cheerful Hill'), Hotel Casa Higueras exemplifies the new standard. Its US$2million restoration tucked 20 spacious rooms (many with ocean-view terraces) into a former mansion's elegant craftsman-style interior with 5-star flair. Expect mod cons (keyless entry, noise-reducing windows) and plenty of pampering (double-sheeted linen, Belgian chocolates). A Mediterranean-style terraced garden cascades to an infinity pool. Step out to explore a maze of cobbled streets lined with homes painted a rainbow of vivid colours, or ride the century-old El Peral ascensor (funicular) to the harbour.

Highs

• Sublime marriage of period architecture, up-to-the minute design and luxe amenities; all the warmth of a home stay polished with sleek boutique style
• Panoramas of the city, bay and Pacific Ocean from 5 levels and the roof terrace
• Warm, genuine, anything-you-please service
• Stylish bistro with imaginative euro-local menu
• Palatial terraced garden cascading to an infinity pool, plus a 12-person, partially enclosed Jacuzzi
• State-of-the-art business and conference centre on a separate level; free hotel-wide WiFi
• A great base for exploring on foot with easy access to the harbour and public transport

Lows

• Reawakening Valparaíso is still a bit shabby around the edges (the hotel's dining terrace faces a littered hillside); if you prize master-planned glam over bohemian colour, opt for neighbouring Viña del Mar (8km north), the darling of Chileans on summer holiday
• Valparaíso is a working port with military and container ships docked at its harbour; water views are prettiest at night
• This is an earthquake zone - we were awakened early one morning by the hotel creaking on its foundation
• There are only 5 parking spaces (2 blocks away), and these are reserved for guests staying in the suites