Casa de Terena

A super-cosy hideaway in an undiscovered hilltop village with long views across a lake to the hills

A small untouched village that basks in the hot Alentejo sun. At the top of the hill, once the bishop’s manor house, Casa de Terena stands bathed in bougainvillea, shaded by the castle walls. The house is impeccable in every way, be it the vaulted brick roof in the sitting room, the marble stairs ‘rescued’ from a Roman temple (Julius Caesar visited in 43 BC), Stella’s fabulous pottery, or paintings from all over the world that fill the walls and alcoves.

Quietly chic bedrooms extol the virtues of uncluttered simplicity. Those at the back have huge views across olive groves to the Lucefecit reservoir and hills; those at the front have Juliet balconies serenading the castle. Help yourself to a drink, then potter across the cobbled lane and sit at a table outside the old church; don’t expect to be disturbed by cars. Jeremy can organise incredible diversions: mountain-bike safaris, canoe trips up river gorges, visits to local wineries, dinner on the castle ramparts. If you yearn to escape the crowds in a blissful pocket of undiscovered Europe, apply within.

Highs

• The house and the village; both are gorgeous, a great base for those who want to explore
• There’s something exquisite at every turn: a calçada (tiled) entrance hall, Italian sofas, voile wall hangings, sumptuously upholstered armchairs, mellow lighting, an open fire in winter
• You’re in the heart of one of the loveliest areas in Portugal and you’ll have it to yourself
• Jeremy and Stella, who are extremely helpful and very knowledgeable

Lows

• There’s no pool, but you can swim in the lake
• There’s no air conditioning, but ceiling fans and shuttered windows keep you cool
• The only outdoor seating area is on the cobbled street outside, but it's a great spot for relaxing and watching village life go by