Casas da Lapa

Stylish country hotel amidst Portugal's highest mountains, offering warm hospitality, great food and stunning hiking

You could be forgiven for wondering where the Serra de Estrela is - it's not explored by many tourists, not even the Portuguese. But this vast National Park's rugged beauty - 2,000m limestone peaks, mossy waterfalls, granite caves, crystalline river pools - make it amply worth the long drive. It's in Portugal's central highlands, 300km north of Lisbon, 175km south of Oporto. So now you know.

Constructed from old shepherd's cottages in 3 lawned tiers on the side of a terraced hill overlooking a swimming pool and courtyard, the hotel is perched above the village of Lapa dos Dinheiros ('Treasure Cave'), with fabulous views across the valleys and peaks. Inside you'll find light bedrooms with jacuzzi tubs, walls of rough stone and smooth whitewash, neutral colours enlivened by dusky reds and olives. And after a day of trekking, cycling, village touring or river swimming, the sauna and steam bath will leave you in the pink. For those seeking contemporary comfort and delicious food in an unspoilt mountain retreat, this is a perfect find.

Highs

• Stylish modern interiors - unusual in such a rustic and remote location
• Cosy living rooms (firelit in winter, beautifully cool in summer) showcase local sculptures and paintings
• The sleek dining room and sunny poolside terrace offer the best in regional and home-grown cuisine
• The National Park - 100,000 hectares of it - is on your doorstep
• A great place to escape with a loved one, with the family (kids will love the Toy Museum in Seia and the zoo in Gouveia), or with a group of friends

Lows

• Access is tricky: from the A1 at Coimbra it's all country roads, which get narrower as you go up, especially when you reach the village itself
• Slightly rabbit-warren in construction; we found it a bit claustrophobic, though bedrooms are spacious
• It can be cold and misty up here at 750m altitude (though rarely in summer) and bear in mind that the higher 5 bedrooms all have exterior access
• The nearest restaurants are 7km away in Seia, though meals are on offer at the hotel