Castello di Vicarello

Remote, magical and characterful castle with 7 romantic suites, 2 pools and outstanding views across Maremma valleys

This is the stuff of film sets and fairy tales: half a medieval castle (the other stone tower burnt to a cinder in the 13th century) atop a hill of vines and olive groves. Stone steps lead up to a cobbled courtyard, from which arched doorways open into a labyrinth of dark, mysterious rooms. Expect huge sooted fireplaces, stone-flagged floors, vaulted ceilings, arrow-slit windows and enchanting gardens with undulating lawns of cypress and mulberry, and beds of rose, lavender and rosemary. On a clear day, you can just see the sea, a line of blue or silver, glinting on the horizon beyond thick forest.

The castello has been a holiday home to Aurora and Carlo Baccheschi Berti since 1978. They converted an outbuilding (the villa, Chiesina, is now one of 7 amazing suites), but the tower remained a ruin until they turned it into a retreat for stressed out fast-laners. After restoration, a labour of love, they stuffed the place with treasures (glass, brass, books, curios, exotic art, dark oak and dripping votive candles) and added 2 ozone-treated pools plus a spa. The rest, as they say, is history.

Highs

• So romantic: the castle's ancient stonework, its palpable history (the surviving tower is 1,100 years old) and its nooks and crannies all ooze atmosphere
• With 2 pools shared between 7 suites, guests often get one to themselves, at least for some of the time
• The food is freshly prepared from home-grown organic produce
• The gardens are a joy
• They can arrange boat trips to the islands of Giglio and Giannutri

Lows

• ‘Rustic’ lunches and dinners are served without menus or price lists and the food is very expensive (check out the cost before reserving a table)
• No air con, though thick stone walls and natural ventilation keep rooms quite cool at night (beware of the mozzies)
• Continental breakfast is average, and fresh orange juice, eggs or prosciutto and cheese are charged as extra
• The nearest shops and restaurants are a 20-minute drive - you'll need a car