Castello di Vicarello

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near Grosseto, Tuscany, Italy

Remote, magical and characterful castle with 6 romantic suites, 2 pools and outstanding views across Maremma valleys

Reviewed by Lesley Gillilan

Castello di Vicarello, Italy, Overview

CASTELLO DI VICARELLO - REVIEW

This is the stuff of film sets and fairy tales: half a medieval castle (the other stone tower burnt to a cinder in the 13th century) atop a hill of vines and olive groves. Stone steps lead up to a cobbled courtyard, from which arched doorways open into a labyrinth of dark mysterious rooms. Expect huge sooted fireplaces, stone-flagged floors, vaulted ceilings, arrow-slit windows and enchanting gardens with undulating lawns of cypress and mulberry, beds of rose, lavender and rosemary. On a clear day, you can just see the sea, a line of blue or silver, glinting on the horizon beyond thick forest.

The castello has been a holiday home to Aurora and Carlo Baccheschi Berti since 1978. They converted an outbuilding (the villa, Chiesina, is now one of 6 amazing suites), but the tower remained a ruin until they turned it into a retreat for stressed out fast-laners. After restoration, a labour of love, they stuffed the place with treasures (glass, brass, books, curios, exotic art, dark oak and dripping votive candles). They added 2 ozone-treated pools and a spa. The rest, as they say, is history.

HIGHS

So romantic: the castle's ancient stonework, its palpable history (the surviving tower is 1100 years old), its nooks and crannies, all ooze atmosphere
With 2 pools shared between 6 suites, guests often get one to themselves, at least for some of the time
The food is freshly prepared from home-grown organic produce
The gardens are a joy
They can arrange boat trips to the islands of Giglio and Giannutri

LOWS

‘Rustic’ lunches and dinners are served without menus or price lists and the food is very expensive (check out the cost and menu before reserving a table)
No air con, though thick stone walls and natural ventilation keep rooms quite cool at night (beware the mozzies)
Continental breakfast is average, and fresh orange juice, eggs or prosciutto and cheese are charged as extra
Nearest shop, or restaurant, is a 20-minute drive – you'll need a car

Print Whole Report

Name	Castello di Vicarello	Location	Poggi del Sasso, Tuscany
Type	Stylish Castle: 6 rooms, 1 cottage	Country	Italy
Price Guide	Dbl: €370-1100, BB	Open	All year


DISTANCES	Airport: 136km	Nearest Shops: 5km	Nearest restaurant: 5km	Beach: 57km