Chakrabongse Villas
Bangkok, Thailand
4 lovely apartments tucked, like small summer houses, in the verdant grounds of an aristocratic residence right on the river
Right in the heart of the city, with skyscraping condos and aquatic
shanty towns and traffic-clogged avenues stretching for miles in
every direction, lies this oasis of calm. Leafy gardens, tall
palms, colourful frangipanis, raised wooden decks and a
flower-ringed swimming pool usher you into a distant dream world.
But the view from the floating pavilion is pure Bangkok: across the
Chao Phraya’s busy waters, Wat Arun (the Temple of Dawn) and
Wat Kalayanamirt flank, like exotic spaceships, the fortress of
Vichai Prasit.
This undisputed pearl among the river-front boutique hotels is the
100-year-old residence of Prince Chakrabongse (pronounced
Jackapong), 40th son of the prolific King Rama V and hagiographer
of the Chakri Dynasty. It now belongs to his granddaughter Narisa
who - luckily for us - spends much of the year in the UK. At the
end of its gardens are some lovely little Thai-style cottages,
offering 4 independent studio apartments, and a
Chinese-style villa on the other side of the garden. Whether
you’re a romantic couple, a discerning group of friends or a
family looking for a home from home, it feels like a privilege to
stay here.
Reviewed by Michael Cullen
Last updated 20 April 2012
Highs
- Comfortable apartments in wooden Ayutthaya cottages and a two-floor villa, with air-con, kitchenette and indoor-outdoor sitting areas
- Top-notch dinners (by appointment), sitting at low candle-lit tables in the riverside pavilion
- A beautiful garden setting right by the river
- A plush, powerful speedboat at your disposal (extra cost) to explore Bangkok the authentic way, via its extensive river and canal network
- A sense of privilege and seclusion – you often have the grounds and pool to yourselves
Lows
- Since we first trumpeted this place, prices have risen to 5-star-hotel levels, which is a bit cheeky
- Noise from the longtail boats whizzing up and down the river - especially early in the morning
- Staff lack good English and there are not many ‘front desk’ facilities
- The guard watches the entrance like a bloodhound: if you venture out on your own, be prepared to explain yourself on your return!
- Not so well placed for the modern (brash) end of town, with its malls and bars
