Chateau Mcely

A grand and ravishingly romantic castle, set deep in the Czech countryside but only an hour from historic Prague

This is an unexpected phenomenon: a very grand chateau hotel in the depths of Bohemia. Handsome electric gates and a graveled, lawned sweep up to the house set the tone; there was even a gardener wearing a smock and a straw hat – and it wasn’t for a film-crew.

You would never guess that the castle lay in ruins for 60 years, abandoned in 1948 by the Thurn-Taxis aristocracy. But when it was spotted by Jim and Inéz Cusumano, a Silicon Valley entrepreneur and his Czech wife (now a successful property developer in the Republic), they made it their mission to restore it into a luxury hotel. And what a transformation! A sweeping staircase lined with deer antlers leads to 23 elegant, themed suites packed with antiques and sumptuous fabrics. Two dining rooms, decked with chandeliers and Regency chairs, serve grand feasts and top class wines. There are a rooftop observatory, a sauna, a cellar bar and an open-air Jacuzzi. Set amid deep forests, this is a luxurious retreat for couples seeking a pampering break within easy reach of Prague, and would make a delightful wedding venue.

Highs

• A splendid building, impeccably restored, with beautiful casement windows, vast beds and meticulous attention to detail
• Beautiful, tranquil walks in the lake-studded forests - or you can order a horse-drawn carriage if you prefer
• We loved the library, where you can browse fascinating science books, and the rooftop observatory, with telescope for star-gazing
• A truly poetic retreat: Rainer Maria Rilke and Mark Twain found inspiration here in the 19th century

Lows

• It's a popular conference and wedding venue, with a distinctly corporate feel
• Being northeast of Prague, it does not combine well with Carlsbad spa (west) or Cesky Krumlov (south); the only real reason to come this way is Chateau Mcely itself
• The 'Alchemist' bar in the cellar lacks atmosphere (and comfy seating)
• It's an expensive, somewhat formal place - not for casual kicks, but perfect if you want to impress