Chhatra Sagar

Magical tents pitched on a dam overlooking a lake teeming with birds, in the heart of rural Rajasthan

The stunning setting of Chhatra Sagar’s hand-stitched tents - perched, east-facing, on a 100-year-old dam overlooking a lake awash with waterfowl - means you arise to the sight of the sunrise and the sound of birdsong. It’s an idyllic spot to take a breather from the Rajasthan city crush.

Amid the luxury tents you'll find an open-sided reception, a comfortable sitting area, and an air-conditioned, glass-walled library cum bar space. The camp is an updated version of the 1920s hunting parties hosted by the Nimaj family, who have owned the surrounding working farmland for more than a century. Still the welcoming hosts, the Nimajs are wonderfully on-hand, organising bird-watching trips, tours to the local village silversmiths and walks through the outlying pastures. The food is organic and delicious, and the hilltop sundowners allow you to revel in a view that’s blessedly big-sky and free from other beings.

Highs

• The unbeatable location is right on the edge of a lake
• The al fresco dinners take place under an incredible canopy of stars; afterwards, you can sit around a bonfire, chatting with your charming hosts
• The food is widely considered to be the best Rajasthani home cooking in the state
• The lake and its surroundings are home to more than 200 species of bird, as well as blue bull antelopes
• There's extraordinary peace and quiet - so rare in India!

Lows

• There's no ‘monument’ sightseeing as such, but excursions can be arranged
• The tents are quite close together and it gets cold in winter, though heaters and hot water bottles are provided
• As the property is so small it gets sold out quickly, so booking well in advance is essential
• If there's no monsoon the lake dries up by late March (and even earlier on the odd occasion), which means the birdlife to be seen is minimal
• It's closed between 1 April and 30 September each year