Chiang Mai
Why go?
Thailand's second city offers shopping and crafts to rival its
capital, but within a much more compact and friendly framework.
Chiang Mai has 400,000 people and an easily-walkable city
centre, at the heart of which is the famous night-bazaar. It also
boasts river-cruises, gardens and zoos, and the usual plethora of
colourful temples, which give an insight into its heritage as the
capital of the historic, semi-independent kingdom of Lanna
('a million rice-fields'). The 'rose of the north', as it's dubbed,
is the perfect place to spend some time learning about the Thai way
of life – including cookery or massage courses – or
simply to relax, eat and stock up on souvenirs before or after a
trek or adventure trip.
And this is its other raison d'être: the superb
mountain and river scenery stretching away to the Burmese (Myanmar)
and Laos borders, abounding in natural wildlife and peopled by
'hill-tribes'. Almost every visitor to the region takes part in
some kind of trek, usually a multi-day combination of
hiking, rafting and elephant-riding, with the result that some of
the trails turn into production lines in high season. As for the
hill-tribe culture, it has become something of a fairground
attraction, with the most popular settlements dressing up showily
in order to sell trinkets and photos, while ironically the more
remote villagers prefer the ease (and image) of western clothes.
But it is still possible to find authentic 'mountain gypsies'
living in simple wood-and-wicker huts, speaking a Burmese- or
Laotian-derived dialect, practising animist rites, singing, dancing
and eating all kinds of bizarre insects and animals.
Equally exotic-sounding is the 'Golden Triangle' where Burma, Laos
and Thailand converge, north of the burgeoning town of Chiang
Rai. It's famous for the now-defunct opium trade, but today is
of more interest for its hill-studded countryside and its access to
the Mekhong and other stunning rivers.
A week in the region will give you time for a 3- to 4-day trek (or,
if this sounds too much like hard work, a 4-day self-drive tour of
the Mae Hong Son mountain road), plus a few days to enjoy the
delights of Chiang Mai. With a few more days, you could add a
side-trip to the Golden Triangle, either by car or plane.