Chiloe
Why go?
The land south of Puerto Montt crumbles into pieces to form the
rural archipelago of Chiloé. Linked to the mainland by
frequent ferries, the Isla Grande de Chiloé is a magical
place of dense evergreen forests, undulating hills, small farms and
picturesque fishing villages. Along its eastern shore are several
tiny islands, many of which remain uninhabited. Being somewhat
isolated and strongly influenced by colonial settlement and
Huilliche indians, it's quite distinct from the rest of Chile.
Spending a few days there will allow you to soak up its rich local
culture, visit its unique wooden churches, sample excellent seafood
and buy some cosy hand-knitted woollen jerseys.
While the people of Chiloé are unmistakably Chilean, they
are also definitely Chilote. They have a rich folklore with many
mythological animals and spirits (sit down with one of the locals
to hear their fascinating stories). The Spanish, who arrived in the
16th century, and the Jesuit missionaries who followed, constructed
hundreds of small wooden churches in an attempt to bring God to a
pagan land; the result was a mixing of Catholicism and pagan
beliefs. These unique buildings have been designated a Unesco World
Heritage site.
More than half the population relies on subsistence agriculture.
Farms are very small, and cattle-drawn wooden sledges are used to
transport hay and dried seaweed (which is sold to be made into
plastic). Farmers, especially those on the islands of Lemuy and
Quinchao, cultivate both the land and the sea. There are now an
increasing number of salmon and oyster farms which take advantage
of the sheltered waters. Traditional boat building and handmade
knitwear are also important industries. Although the islanders are
generally poor, they're some of the friendliest people you're
likely to meet.