Chiminos Island Lodge

Ecology and archaeology come together in this remote jungle lodge with its own Maya ruin on beautiful Lake Petexbatun

Talk about getting away from it all. We met our charming boatman in Sayaxché, a dusty frontier town an hour south of Flores, then cruised down the winding Río Pasión for another 2 hours into the very heart of Peten. The river widened to shimmering Lake Petexbatun, teeming with bird and wildlife. But our destination was unseen until we moored beside the jetty; Chiminos Island Lodge hides amid dense jungle and huge ceiba trees.

It's actually a peninsula rather than an island, its neck scattered with impressive fortifications from the Petexbatun Maya's last stand 1,300 years ago. The only 'modern' buildings are the 6 stilted bungalows of this eco-lodge, built of local thatch and reclaimed mahogany, plus a central lobby with a restaurant and a bar. Wonderful walkways weave through pristine jungle, every step resounding to the screech of noisy parrots and howler monkeys. Such is their passion for Maya conservation that owners Juan Carlos and Mynor Pinto work for free, investing proceeds in local communities.

Highs

• You have a nature sanctuary with jungle wildlife on your doorstep (toucans, monkeys, crocodiles) and fabulous bird-watching
• Within easy reach of fascinating and rarely visited Maya sites
• There's great fishing, lovely canoeing and an 'underwater garden' for snorkellers
• Absolute tranquility - the cabanas are set hundreds of feet from each other
• A water treatment plant, locally generated electricity and propane gas range minimise the ecological impact

Lows

• It's definitely off the beaten track, so getting here requires effort and expense
• It's relatively costly as everything has to be imported by boat
• The staff only speak Spanish but are very helpful and friendly
• It's not for those uncomfortable with nocturnal noises and creepy crawlies (we saw a boa slithering past our bungalow)
• The food is nicely presented but patchy; the drinks list is understandably limited
• There's nothing to do but sleep after the generator goes off at 9pm