Crete
Top Tips
Crete is a big island with lots to recommend, so scroll down to the part that interests you - Chania, Kissamos, White Mountains, Elounda, Makriyialos - or print the whole guide if you prefer.
back to topChania
Chania (Hania) is a lovely little city with several identities
rolled into one. Its best-known face is its Venetian seafront,
lined with bustling cafés and touristy tavernas, and
protected by imposing sea walls; check into the charming
Mama Nena if you want a harbour view. Step one block
inland and you are in an Ottoman old town, packed with cobbled
alleys and craft shops. A few blocks further, you are in a
typically Greek residential / business area - modern, concrete, but
refreshingly relaxed. A short way along the coast you'll find sandy
beaches (west), or an elegant quarter of 19th century mansions
(east), dating from Crete’s stint as an allied-occupied
directorate. Strolling between these microcosms is a pleasure in
itself.
RESTAURANTS
Antigoni
On the east end of the waterfront beyond the Arsenali. Outstanding
fish soup and seafood, small indoor room, friendly owner (Antigoni)
and helpful waiters (her sons)
Tamam
A cut above most of the old town eateries, occupying a domed
Ottoman bath building - though you usually eat outside on the
tables which line the narrow, pedestrianised Zambeliou St, one
block in from the harbour.
Well of the Turk
In Splanzia district - worth the short walk, though you should
arrive early to ensure a place. Their North African and Middle
Eastern cuisine includes aubergine meatballs with baba ganoush,
plus orange and avocado salad.
Monastiraki
Probably the best of the busy places on the old harbour - near the
Janissaries mosque. Huge range of dishes including ‘little
devil’ (spicy sausage pieces) and a ‘nun’
(ice-cream, halva and fruit baked in an earthenware bowl); indoor
rooms and wind-protected bit of quayside
Semiramis
A couple of blocks in from central seafront. Good traditional fare,
including pies, greens, bean stew etc; indoor rooms (one vaulted)
and a separate court; music is piped but normally Cretan
Thalassino Ayeri
1 km east of the centre, hidden down an unlikely lane - best to
take a taxi. A somewhat drab setting but excellent, locally-famous
seafood and the freshest of fish (booking advised, tel 56672)
Evgonia
In the new town, on Mylonogianni 120. Way off the tourist trail, in
a modern residential quarter, but worth it for the great fresh
fish, reasonably priced.
SHOPPING
Our favourite buys include:
Penknives from the workshops on Kanevaro or Sifaka street
– more distinctive than a Swiss army knife, longer-lasting
than an Opinel, and sharper than either. Don't forget to check it
in to your hold luggage when you fly home.
Leather sandals or walking shoes from the many stalls on
Skridlof St – handmade, solid, durable.
Homeware from Kiwi at 86 Halidon St (near the top) - we
bought some beautiful place mats and kitchen crockery, all of it
with a hint of Scandinavian design (one of the owners is
Danish).
Cretan folk music - we love the CDs of Loudovikos Ton
Anoyion, who is from a village near Heraklion
Cheese, herbs and infusions from the covered market,
including therapeutic dittany (dictamo), sage tea and
fragrant oregano (very light gifts to bring home!)
OUT OF TOWN
Beaches
Walk west and you'll come to a string of beaches, the first of
which is sandy and pleasant enough for an afternoon swim; or
continue 1km further to Ayii Apostoli where you can round off with
a cocktail and dinner at chic Hotel Ammos
Monasteries of Ayia Triada (Giagarolou) and
Gouvernetou
On Akrotiri peninsula, near the airport (½ hr drive): the
former is ornate and grandiose, the latter remote and intimate, and
has a delightful path down to the ruined church and cave-hermitage
of Ayios Ioannis (Katholiko)
back to topKissamos and the West
While the town of Kissamos (Kastelli) itself may have little to
recommend it, other than a weekly ferry connection to Gythion
(Peloponnese), all around are some of Crete's loveliest beaches and
most picturesque hillscapes. The hilltop hotel of Elia is
a perfect base, with excellent food and spa treatments when you
return.
Gramvousa
The westernmost of the 'fingers' sticking up from Crete is a
rugged, mountainous peninsula with a couple of isolated islets, one
holding a ruined Venetian fort, and the most idyllic beach (Balos)
at its tip. A dirt road goes most of the way, but you will need to
walk the last part - or catch a cruise from Kissamos.
Elafonisi beach
A near-perfect circle of sand with enclosed, shallow waters ideal
for families. It is undeniably idyllic, but swarms with visitors in
summer. Nearby is a small monastery called Chryssoskalitissa
(‘golden staircase’) on top of a rock - which was the
starting point for the trans-island trek described in Christopher
Somerville's excellent The Golden Step.
Polyrinia
7km from Kissamos, this ruined hilltop city combines Roman
aqueducts, Venetian fortifications, Hellenic myths - and stunning
vistas in every direction. Park your car at the end of the road, in
the modern village of Polyrinia, walk back 50m and right, up a dirt
track, passing Hellenistic cave-dwellings, to the church of the 99
Founding Fathers, who ‘rescued’ Christianity during the
Saracen-Arab occupation. From here small paths lead up to the
castle, with its cisterns, walls and views. If you fancy a longer
trek, you can follow the Sirikari gorge inland to Sineniana and
(with some planning and a good map) over the hills to
Milia - a fantastic day's hiking.
back to topThe White Mountains
The White Mountains
So called because their summits glare as brightly in the summer sun
as they do in the winter’s snow, these are a hiker’s
and botanist’s paradise. The combination of high limestone
peaks, deep gorges and a road-free coastline makes for a rich
variety of terrain and wildlife. There are more flower species here
than in most European countries, it is an important stopover for
migratory birds, and it is the last bastion of the Cretan chamois
or kri-kri.
Samaria Gorge
At its heart is the Samaria National Park, containing most of the
2000m+ peaks and the longest of the limestone gorges. This gorge
has long been THE day excursion for hikers, and consequently swarms
with people during its opening period (May-October). If you
don’t mind the crowds and are up to 16km of mostly rocky
path, then its snaking, neck-cricking cliff-walls can’t fail
to impress; otherwise, there are plenty of shorter, emptier but
equally beautiful canyons. We love the Ayia Irini gorge above
Souyia, feasible as a day hike from Anidri - catch a taxi
to Epanohori and walk back down to Moni (3-4 hours). Or the
Sirikari gorge, which links Polyrinia with Sineniana and
Milia (4-5 hours; good map needed).
Gingilos peak
Peak-baggers can easily climb Gingilos (2080m) from Xiloskala, the
trailhead for the Samaria gorge on the edge of the Omalos plateau.
It's a dramatic 5-6 hour round trip, including a natural rock-arch
and some quasi-scrambling at the end; you'll need a guidebook or a
map, but not a guide. However if you want to venture into the heart
of the White Mountains, you'll need a guide with keys to the
unstaffed refuge at the foot of Pachnes summit (2453m).
The Paleohora-Sfakia Coast
The coast between Paleohora and Sfakia is completely road-free and
stunningly beautiful - clear blue seas, pine woods, secluded coves.
A trail - and a passenger ferry - links Paleochora - Souyia - Ayia
Roumeli - Loutro - Sfakia, making point-to-point hikes a joy. The
best stretch is from Paleohora - Souyia (5 hours' hiking) via the
magical ruins of ancient Lissos, feasible as a day-trip from
Anidri. The section from Ayia Roumeli to Loutro (6-7
hours' hiking) is also lovely, though busier; en route you cross
the sheer-walled Aradena gorge, which makes a great day hike in its
own right (if you don't mind vertiginous ladders). There's
practically no shade, so take loads of water and sun protection for
all walks.
Rethymno
Rethymno (also written Rethimnon, or any variant of these two) is a
lovely harbour- and university town on Crete's north coast which -
though it might resent the simile - is like a smaller, less visited
version of Chania. It boasts a pretty, part-crumbling,
part-restored old town, whose cobbled streets are lined by
pastel-coloured buildings, Ottoman-era minarets and Italianate
churches and fountains. There's a picturesque harbour, half of it
devoted to brightly painted fishing boats, the other to ferries
(which ply nightly to Piraeus) and larger boats, all guarded by an
imposing 16th-century Venetian fortress. And there are some great
festivals, including a wine bonanza in June and a Renaissance
reenactment in July.
It's also handy as a base for exploring this west-central tranch of
the island. Just inland, in the foothills of Mount Idi
(Psiloritis), lies the 16th-century Arkadi Monastery with
its lovely Venetian-baroque church and gruesome history - it was
the site of a bloody battle against the Turks in 1866, which ended
with the Greek monks, rebels and families blowing themselves and
their attackers up by exploding the gunpowder room.
A more tranquil monastic beauty awaits at Preveli on the
south coast. The 17th-century monastery, with its beautiful
cloistered courtyard and small museum, sits on hill overlooking the
most photogenic sand beach, where a palm grove shades a lovely
river estuary. As always, try and go early, or out of season, to
beat the crowds.
back to topElounda and Lasithi
Elounda and Agios Nikolaos
Home to many of Crete’s swishest resorts, Elounda is a
manicured jewel of a spot, with sandy beaches, pristine waters and
some top notch places to eat, drink and be merry. Elounda
Gulf Villas is our pick of the ultra-luxe hotels. Offshore is the
fortified rocky islet of Spinalonga, once a Venetian stronghold
against the Turks, then a leper colony, now just a spookily
fascinating place - well worth a day-cruise. Nearby is the
‘sunken city’ of Olous, a Minoan port now half-buried
by sea and sand, and the tiny islet of Kolokytha which is home to
the excellent-value Elounda Island Villas. 8km south of
Elounda, bustling "Ag Nik" has a supposedly bottomless lake (which
is actually 64m deep, and connected to the sea), lined with bars,
tavernas and British tourists.
Lasithi Plateau
This lush mountain plateau ringed by snow-capped summits is a
popular day-trip from Elounda and Ag Nik, but don’t believe
the hype advertising thousands of white-sailed windmills: most of
them are sail-less and rusting. Nevertheless, the patchwork of
apple, pear, fig and olive orchards makes a beautifully lush break
from the arid coastline, and you can hike up to the Diktean cave,
which claims to be the birthplace of Zeus. Bring a torch and follow
the path up from the village of Psihro – guides are
available, but not strictly necessary (you can probably guess which
stalactites are dubbed Rhea and Zeus).
back to topMakriyialos and the Southeast Coast
Makriyialos (Makris Gialos)
Heading east from Ierapetra past polytunnel-swathed fields,
Makriyialos is the first attractive beachside town. It has a pretty
fishing harbour, restored waterfront houses (including the
White Houses), traces of Mycenean and Roman settlements
and a wide choice of bars and tavernas. Continuing through
Analipsi, at the mouth of the Pefki gorge, is the restored stone
hamlet of White River Cottages - a wonderfully secluded
base for exploring this area. Nearby Kapsa monastery, perched
impressively over the mouth of the rocky Perivolakia gorge,
contains treasures amassed by a fraudulent self-appointed
miracle-worker called Gerontoyiannis (you can see his skull in a
box). Afterwards, swim at the small, pebbly bay below.
Vaï and Zakros
Vaï is billed as the only natural palm beach in Europe and,
sitting on a palm-shaded sun-bed wiggling one toe in the hot sand,
it certainly feels exotic. However it also feels crowded, so try
and come early, or off-season. There are quieter beaches 10
minutes’ walk south or 20 minutes’ north (Itanos). The
other big attraction here is the Minoan palace of Zakros (closed
Mondays). It’s a knee-high ruin with a fairly simple
ground-plan (compared to Knossos), but enhanced by its setting in
the ‘Valley of the Dead’. This marshy land at the mouth
of a gorge is so called because of the tombs which line the
rockfaces nearby. Keen hikers can follow a marked trail from below
Ano Zakros through this valley to the palace, and reward themselves
with a swim and a meal at Kato Zakros. Both Vaï and Zakros can
be combined in a loop from Makriyialos, feasible in a day if you
set off early.