Dar Lazuli

A quirky, cosy riad with 4 self-catering apartments (sleeping 2) and sun-trap roof terraces, hidden deep within Essaouira’s medina

You’d be forgiven for thinking you’ve taken a wrong turning as you head down rue Moussa ben Noussaire, a dark alleyway tucked away in Essaouira’s tangled medina. But press on and you’ll come across a smart, white studded door, which swings open to reveal housekeepers Rachid and Latifa, who greet you with huge smiles. This is Dar Lazuli: a homely refuge from the jumble of narrow streets outside. Step inside and you’ll find shelves laden with stacks of Moroccan cookbooks, walls dotted with quirky ceramics and strings of shells, and tiled floors covered in colourful striped rugs. All around are brightly painted nooks where you can snuggle up with a good book; by the door, a collection of beach hats awaits those who want to amble along the town’s windswept sands.

After falling for Essaouira’s relaxed vibe when visiting for a birthday party, British owners Rachel and Nicola spent 3 years searching for a riad renovation project before finding Dar Lazuli. It now houses 4 apartments arranged around a central colonnaded courtyard. All have kitchens, sitting areas and some of the comfiest beds (all super-kingsize) which we’ve ever had the pleasure to sink into; most have fires to keep you cosy in winter. Climb up the twisting stone staircase and you’ll come across a series of sunny terraces, with wooden tables where you can dine al fresco and cushioned seats for lazy afternoons. If you’re after a super-smart, slick hotel then stay away; if you want an intimate hideaway with a warm welcome and rates that won’t scare your bank manager, then you’ll love it.

Highs

• The quirky apartments mix traditional Moroccan elements with nice little touches (iPod docks, CDs and books, candles with matches) to make you feel at home
• Rachel and Nicola boast that the beds at Dar Lazuli are “the best in Essaouira” - from our experience it’s no exaggeration
• The medina location means you’re right at the hub of things, with plenty of restaurants nearby, and only 2 minutes from the beach
• The 3 terraces (including one on the roof) are real sun-traps - sit back on the cushioned benches and doze off to the sounds of Essaouira life all around you

Lows

• The alleyway in front of the riad is dingy and a little smelly, and there’s some street noise from outside
• Rachid and Latifa are friendly and hugely helpful hosts, but they don’t speak much English; make sure you brush up on your French and take a phrase book with you
• The kitchen and courtyard of the ground-floor apartment, Sirocco, are overlooked by communal areas
• The rooms can feel a little dark and damp in the colder months; make sure you request one with a fireplace