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Guatemala

Getting there

There are few direct flights to Guatemala from Europe; most traffic is via the United States. For Antipodeans the choice is either to fly via the US or Mexico City. Usually visitors arrive by plane to Guatemala City's International Airport - Aurora. Some travellers will arrive overland, usually from Mexico or neighbouring Central American countries.

BY AIR FROM EUROPE:
A direct flight to Guatamala from Europe is only available from Madrid on Iberia.

BY AIR FROM USA:
Otherwise your best bet is to connect via a US airline and US hubs.
Continental Airlines: Nonstop flights from Houston.
American Airlines: Nonstop flights from Miami and Dallas/Fort Worth.
Delta Air Lines: Nonstop flight from Atlanta.
United: Direct flight from Los Angeles.
Grupo Taca: Nonstop flights from Chicago, Los Angeles and Miami; flights from Dallas/Fort Worth, Houston, Washington DC, New York, San Francisco and Toronto with a stopover in San Salvador; also flights from various locations in Latin America.

BY AIR FROM LATIN AMERICA:
Mexicana has direct flights from Mexico City.

BY LAND:
There are several routes through Mexico, the best route is along the Carretera Interamericana (Pan-American Highway) through Oaxaca and San Cristobal de las Casas to the border crossing at La Mesilla on to the western highlands and Huehuetenango. Or there are several border crossings into Peten, in the North via Tenosique and El Naranjo, Frontera Corozal and Bethel. Alternatively there are a number of entry and exit points south - the Carretera Interamericana exits towards Santa Ana in El Salvador and the point of entry into Honduras is via Esquipulas or Copan.

Getting Around

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Guatemala has no passenger trains and only the rich few can afford cars, so nearly everybody travels by fume-filled, overcrowded and very colourful 'chicken buses'. Westerners tend to travel most by tourist shuttles and the odd internal flight but it is worth taking a chicken bus for an authentic experience of Guatemala.

BY BUS:

By far the most common method of transport internally.
Chicken Bus - easily identified by gaily painted bodywork and noxious fumes, these tend to leave when the bus is full. Travel can be slow and uncomfortable, but never dull with all ages clinging on as the driver hurtles round corners. Catch them at bus terminals or by hailing one along the road.
Express Bus - quicker with fewer stops and more punctual, these vary hugely between companies, but are your best bet for travelling longer distances along main routes e.g. Guatemala City to Rio Dulce.
Shuttle Bus - increasingly popular, these fast, non-stop buses conveniently collect passengers from their hotels. More expensive, geared to tourists, these services connect main tourist centres.
Private Transfer - your hotel or tour operator can arrange these for you in a minibus on request.

BY AIR:
The most common internal flight is from Guatemala City to Flores and or back again. This 50 minute flight (rather than 8-10 hours by bus) costs from US$75 one way and from US$123 return. You can book your flights through any travel agent in the country, or via your tour operator - Taca owned Inter is the main carrier. You can also fly to several other destinations internally but the distances are not great and cancellations frequent. Charter airlines fly to outlying airstrips given sufficient demand.

BY CAR:
Driving around Guatemala is certainly possible with relatively empty (although patchy) roads and friendly locals, but bear in mind it is expensive, and parking and security will be your biggest concerns. A good working knowledge of Spanish will help your cause. Petrol stations are scarce outside the main roads and fuel is cheap by European standards but double that in America. Car hire is around £40 per day (in 2009) for a Ford Focus (or similar) sized car; make sure your insurance covers damage to your vehicle. Holiday Autos can be booked on the internet and offers competitive rates.

BY BIKE AND MOTOBIKE:
Bicycles are quite common in Guatemala, and cycling a popular sport. Chicken buses will carry bikes on the roof, most towns have a repair shop, and its a great way to see the country if you have the energy to climb through the highlands. You can also rent them in Antigua and Panajachel.
Motorbikes are less common and locating parts and mechanical expertise can be a problem. You can rent them in Guatemala City, Panajachel and Antigua.

BY FERRY AND BOAT:
Ferries operate between Puerto Barrios and Livingston on the Caribbean coast and connect Puerto Barrios with Belize.
Boats are useful in Peten along rivers, as well as on Lago de Peten Itza between Flores and villages on the opposite shore. Unmissable boat trips are down the Rio Dulce gorge between Livingston and Rio Dulce, and across volcano-encircled Lago de Atitlan.

When To Go

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Known as 'the land of eternal spring', Guatemala is blessed with balmy stable temperatures year round. Most of the country enjoys warm or hot days with mild or cool evenings year round. The altitude determines local climate: the highlands between 1300 and 1600 metres have a temperature range of 18-24 degrees celsius (Guatemala City, Antigua, Atitlan); the lowlands, between 70 and 125 metres range between 22-34 degrees celsius (Peten), and can be very humid.

Dry and warm between November and May, December to March is the busiest in terms of tourists. The rainy season starts in May and ends in November but this mostly entails sunny mornings with rain at teatime. However, June and July are often dry and clear and are also a popular time to visit; September and October are the wettest months.

HOLIDAYS

Every town and village has at least one fiesta day or sometimes a week every year, usually dedicated to the local saint. In Ladino areas this could involve a fair, processions, marching bands and late night salsa and merengue dancing. In the Maya highlands you'll see traditional dances and musicians with amazing costumes. The Caribbean fiestas are hedonistic carnivals as befits their different tradition. Huge quantities of alcohol are common to all, as is unbounded energy and enthusiasm.

The most important dates are:

January 1: New Year's Day, public holiday
January 12-15: Flores fiesta
1st Friday in Lent: Antigua
Semana Santa: Easter, or Holy Week is huge throughout Guatemala, particularly in Antigua, and it is advised to book travel and accommodation well in advance. Santiago Atitlan is also worth visiting to see the cigar smoking saint Maximon paraded through the streets
May 1: Labour Day, marked in Guatemala City by marches and protests, public holiday
June: Corpus Christi celebrations
June 30:Army Day, anniversary of the 1871 revolution, public holiday
July 25: Santiago fiesta in Antigua; also celebrated Santiago Atitlan
August: Many fiestas in highland areas
August 15: Guatemala City fiesta
September 15: Independence Day public holiday
October 2-6: Panajachel fiesta
October 12: Discovery of America bank holiday
October 20: Revolution Day, public holiday
November 1: All Saints Day, public holiday
November 26: Garifuna Day in Livingston
December 7: Burning of the Devil sees men dressed up as devils chase around highland towns
December 13-21: Large Chichicastenango fiesta
December 25: Christmas Day
December 31: New Year's Eve

Visas/Entry Requirements

Citizens of Europe, North America and Australasia only need a valid passport for a stay up to three months. Passport holders from a few countries, like South Africa, also need a tourist card available at the point of entry. Most African and Asia citizens need a visa.

There is no charge to enter the country although some border officials have been known to ask for a fee of around 10Q. Asking for un recibo (receipt) usually prevents payment. To extend your 90 day visit, go to the immigration department in Inguat (tourist information) in Guatemala City, or simply cross the border and re-enter.

Other Essentials

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See Travel Health Advice for travellers going abroad from the UK or Disease Control for those from North America.

The vast majority of travellers leave Guatemala without experiencing any health problems at all. There are no obligatory inoculations unless you're arriving from a high risk area. However, it is recommended that you are up to date with your typhoid, hepatitis A, tetanus and polio vaccines. You could also consider diphtheria and tuberculosis jabs. Plan ahead for immunisations. Malaria is a hazard in lowland areas (below 1500m) and it is advised to take doctors advice as to whether you require anti-malarial medication. Dengue fever can also occur in some lowland areas.

The most likely complaint is diarrhoea usually from a change of diet rather than encountering anything too unhygienic. The best cure is to drink plenty of bottled water and eat bland food. If symptoms persist over a few days you should seek medical advice. The local consulate or tourist office of the town you're in can usually recommend someone reliable (who will expect to be paid in cash). Most antibiotics can be bought over the counter at a chemist (make a note of any medication you are allergic to).

Make sure you take precautions against being bitten by mosquitoes, particularly in the lowland areas. Insect repellant and antihistamines are well worth bringing along if you are susceptible.

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