Dominica
Top Tips
Hiking
Numerous paths criss-cross the mountainous interior. The
adventurous can climb the Trois Pitons (4,600ft) or endure the
challenging day trek to Boiling Lake via the Valley of Desolation.
Easier hikes will lead you to beautiful waterfalls.
Scuba diving and snorkelling
Considered one of the world's top dive destinations, the relatively
untouched and uncrowded waters surrounding Dominica are teaming
with coral, sponges and fish. Aim for Scott's Head/Soufriere Marine
Reserve in the south west.
Whale-watching
The waters off Dominica's west coast are considered the best in the
Caribbean to watch sperm whales. Humpbacks and dolphins can also be
seen. Best time: Nov-March.
Birdwatching
135 species of bird, including the endangered Sisserou and Jaco
parrots found in the Northern Forest Reserve.
Botanists
Plant lovers will be in orchid heaven and the world's last ocean
rainforest.
Beaches
Most are rocky with grey volcanic sand, the only golden sands are
to be found in the north near Portsmouth and Calibishie. Better to
swim in the rivers or under waterfalls.
Culture
Carib Indian Territory in the northeast, home to 3,000 indigenous
Caribs.
back to topRoseau
Located on the south west coast, the capital of Dominica is a laid
back, friendly town with brightly-coloured wooden houses, a
Catholic cathedral and botanical gardens laid out in the 19th
century by a team from Kew. Avoid days when large Caribbean cruise
ships come to town (usually Wednesdays and Saturdays) when it
becomes beseiged by day trippers heading off to local sites.
Just south of Roseau is Champagne Rock a must for snorkellers or
divers. Thousands of small, warm volcanic bubbles rise from the sea
bed, amid beautiful coral and fish.
back to topSoufriere
On the southern tip of the island you'll find the sun-kissed
fishing villages of Soufriere and Scott's head, both with stunning
coastal settings. Soufriere's local church built from volcanic
stone is one of the prettiest on the island and worth a visit.
Zandoli Inn is just a few miles away perched on
the cliff top.
Diving: The Scott's Head/Soufriere Bay Marine Reserve has some
really excellent dive sites. Within 1/2 a mile of the coast, there
are dramatic drop-offs, vertical walls of 800-1,500ft, pinnacles,
pristine reefs and extraordinary underwater hot springs. Access is
by boat. You won't see loads of large fish, but marine life is
abundant (moray eels, 190 species of colourful fish, giant sponges,
coral, seahorses) and visibility is excellent (up to 30m). Diving
can be arranged through your hotel with a local operator. Excellent
snorkelling trips can also be arranged as can sea kayaking.
Whale-watching can also be arranged by the local dive centres.
Resident sperm whales are frequently seen (mostly in winter) as
well as numerous types of dolphin.
Check out the Sundowner Cafe in Scott's Head and the Seabird Cafe
on the way to Soufriere for great views. The River Rock Cafe just
below Papillote is also good for a drink and a
chat with locals.
back to topBoiling Lake
The highlight of the park - and of our trip to Dominica - is this breathtaking volcanic pool, bubbling and steaming away like a vat of boiling milk in the midst of dense, virgin rainforest in the heart of the island. At 70m wide and of unknown depth, it's the world's second largest, with water temperatures in the 90s celsius. It's a stiff 2-3 hour hike each way through dense rainforest and the Valley of Desolation (where sulphuric fumes have destroyed most of the vegetation) - so you need to be fit. You'll need to set off early, and be prepared for occasional downpours, slippery paths, high winds on the summits and a profusion of insects (bring repellent). But there are exotic birds and reptiles to look out for (none are poisonous), and you can treat yourself to a hot water-massage in one of the river pools in the Valley of Desolation on the way back.
back to topMorne Trois Pitons National Park
A botanist's paradise. Created as a national park in 1975, it
comprises 17,000 acres of wild, forested mountains full of rivers,
waterfalls, giant ferns, wild orchids, mist-shrouded peaks,
volcanic hot springs and crater lakes. The Morne Trois Pitons
mountain has three peaks, the highest of which measures 4,550ft
(1,356m), A hiking trail leads to the summit, which is usually
covered by clouds.
Popular attractions within the park are: Trafalgar Falls in the
Roseau Valley, 5 miles from the capital, and a 20-minute walk from
the road near Papillote Wilderness Reserve, the
Emerald Pool - a grotto fed by a 50 ft waterfall near the park
entrance (also a 20-minute hike from the road, but easy access
means both these sites are the most likely to be crowded on cruise
ship days) and other spectacular waterfalls in the park, including
Sari Sari (150ft) and Middleham Falls (250ft), a 1.5-2 hour
walk.
A guide is essential for longer hikes in the park because there are
few markers. They can be found through local hotels but some of the
best are found in the village of Laudat (7 miles east of Roseau). A
recommended company is Kens
Hinterland Adventure Tours and Taxi Service, based in Roseau,
who is the longest established and can arrange day trips with guide
and transport.
Another pleasant circular walk is from Roseau to the villge of
Wotten Waven (up the valley towards Trafalgar) where you'll find
bubbling sulphur springs. From there cut across to Trafalgar Falls
and return to Roseau.
Portsmouth
Located on the north west coast, Portsmouth is a friendly little harbour town (pop. 2,200) and Dominica’s second-largest settlement. There's a good food market twice a week. Take a boat trip up the peaceful Indian River. Heading east along the coastal road you reach Calibishie a charming fishing village with a couple of shops and restaurants.
back to topMorne Diablotin
Southeast of Portsmouth, these almost untouched reserves contain a large portion of the mountainous interior of the island, including Dominica’s highest mountain, Morne Diablotin (4,747ft/1,447m) - it's a tough 3 hour hike to the top. It's also the home of two famous species of indigenous and endangered parrot: the Sisserou and Jaco. The Syndicate Nature Trail is a good spot for viewing them. If hiking into these remote areas, you should hire a tour guide for the day.
back to topCabrits National Park
Situated on the north west coast just north of Portsmouth, this 1,300-acre reserve contains mountain scenery, dry forest, volcanic-sand beaches, coral reefs, swampland and many migratory birds. The focal point of the park is Fort Shirley, an 18th-century British garrison, made up of several restored buildings and a small museum.
back to topCarib Indian Territory
This north eastern coastal point is home to Dominica's indigenous Indians who dominated the island before the arrival of Colombus. Granted 3,700 acres in 1903, it is now known as the Carib territory. The once-hostile Caribs farm, fish, build dugout canoes and sell handwoven baskets but generally live as other Dominicans.
back to topNorthern beaches
The best beaches on the island are on the north east coast - they are small and beautiful with golden sand, but face the Atlantic and strong undertows make swimming dangerous. Head for Pointe Baptiste, Turtle Beach, Hampstead and Woodford Hill.