Douar Samra

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near Imlil, Morocco

A small and colourful guesthouse in one of the highest villages of the mighty Toubkal Massif, imbued with the warmth and vitality of its remarkable owner

Reviewed by Guy Hunter-Watts

Douar Samra, Morocco, Overview

DOUAR SAMRA - REVIEW

From the fertile Ourika valley, a winding road cuts east through a steep-sided gorge to emerge in a rocky ampitheatre at the base of towering Toubkal Massif. The stone and pisé villages that cling to the mountainsides have become one with the landscape. Tamartet is the highest, almost 2000m above sea level, and at the heart of this cluster of red-earth buildings Douar Samra awaits you, as remarkable as its surroundings are wildly beautiful.

Jacqueline fell under the mountains' spell many years ago. A committed conservationist, she restored and expanded this village douar (house) using only traditional methods and materials, working with the villagers, letting them tell her how 'things are done'. She filled her creation with Berber warmth: bright cushions and blankets, candles rather than light bulbs, the aromas of Moroccan cuisine wafting out from a tiny kitchen and an authentic beldi hammam. There's no better trekking base, but if you prefer exploring with your eyes rather than your feet, the lofty roof terrace is an amazing platform to drink it all in.

HIGHS

You could hardly get much higher: you feel like you can reach out and touch the surrounding peaks
Antithesis to the off-the-peg hotel, a place where ‘care’ comes before ‘profit’ and each guest is welcomed as family, in true Berber tradition
One of the most beautiful areas of the High Atlas and at the centre of some of the region's finest trekking country, yet only 1 hour by car from Marrakech
Jacqueline has decorated her home with warmth and colour, always looking locally for inspiration
The best of Moroccan food prepared by your ever-smiling Berber hosts
Although only a mile or so away from busy Imlil (the centre for organised Atlas treks), Tamartet remains remote and unspoiled

LOWS

The track up from Imlil makes for a tricky ride in anything other than 4x4 vehicles. It's best, and also great fun, to arrive by donkey
It's not for the anti-social - people tend to share meals and conversation with fellow guests
Some bedrooms are quite small with low ceilings. But the feel is cosy rather than claustrophobic
Electricity is confined to the kitchen so if you want mod cons, look elsewhere

Print Whole Report

Name	Douar Samra	Location	Toubkal National Park, High Atlas
Type	Mountain Lodge: 7 rooms	Country	Morocco
Price Guide	Dbl: €78 HB	Open	All year


DISTANCES	Airport: 75km	Nearest Shops: 2km	Nearest restaurant: 2km	Beach: 250km