El Angel Azul

A serene B&B just 10 minutes walk from the La Paz seafront with a beautifully designed garden enclosed within a peaceful courtyard

Step off the plane at La Paz airport and you’re in the hot heart of a dusty Western… the surrounding landscape is desert, the sun beats down mercilessly on the cowering buildings, and in summer the streets of the town are deserted. But just off the Avenida Independencia is a heavenly haven from this scorching setting: El Angel Azul ('The Blue Angel'). Discernible only by a blue sign and door set in bleached white walls, this stylish B&B was a former courthouse that had lain empty for 20 years.

Scrupulously restored by the current owner, Swiss-born Esther Ammann, it has a tranquil and relaxed atmosphere, with rooms facing the cacti-filled courtyard under shaded colonnades. With shrines, sculptures, paintings, even an ensenada (clay ‘day of the dead’ skeleton) dotted about the garden, it feels more like staying in the villa of an arty friend. Esther has turned a shell into a local landmark and is definitely a cool host who know hows to stay cool in a hot town.

Highs

• This historical building has been renovated with real care and attention to detail
• Guests in the suite can watch the sunset over their private terrace and listen to the sounds of trickling water from the courtyard fountain
• Despite being the capital of Baja California Sur, La Paz is a small, easygoing seaside city that's retained a colonial atmoshpere. It offers excellent sea-kayaking, diving and fishing excursions in the Sea of Cortez
• Some of Baja's most beautiful beaches are not far from town

Lows

• Some of the courtyard rooms are quite dark
• Heat can rule out much activity between noon and 4pm in La Paz, and there's no pool for cooling off
• There's no restaurant, but Esther has lots of good recommendations.
• Service can depend on whether Esther is at home
• No children under 12 are allowed, except for babies