Garh Jaisal Haveli Hotel

A super friendly family-run guesthouse, hidden within the walls of Jaisalmer's old fort

The fortress city of Jaisalmer rises majestically out of the Thar Desert like the fantastical backdrop to an Indiana Jones film. Once an important part of the camel caravan trading route, Jaisalmer is still a living humming medieval city, its twisting alleys packed with ambling cows, scooters and traders selling the famous local silver. Like the intricately carved Jain temples dominating the heart of the 11th-century fort, the city’s 99 defensive turrets, bridged by impressive walls, are all carved from the local sandstone - giving Jaisalmer its nickname of the ‘Golden City’. The wealthy Jain merchants who financed the fortifications also built handsome mansions (havelis) for themselves, some of which are wonderfully preserved.

Garh Jaisal is one of them, and one of a lucky few hotels tucked within the ramparts. Its contemporary interiors are in direct contrast with the ancient surroundings. Owner Mukesh took 7 years designing the chic Indo-French style interiors, opening in August 2006, but the atmospheric nooks and crannies of the original building, built into the walls of the city, remain. The 7 homely rooms are bursting with colour and cosy corners; the rooftop terrace a perfect place to linger over a chai and soak up the incredible views. Close to the magnificent Sam sand dunes and Gadi Sagar lake, its allure lies in the fact that it’s off the beaten track, yet surprisingly easy to get to.

Highs

• Thanks to the recently opened Jaisalmer airport, you can fly to within 10km of the hotel
• Rooftop terrace with panoramic views of the Thar Desert and Jaisalmer
• Healthy Western-style breakfast with freshly squeezed OJ – served until noon so you can maximise your lie-in
• The decor: rooms are a starburst of colour
• Chic hand-block printed cotton robes, each one unique, and your beautiful bed quilt can be bought and taken home
• Free internet
• Private car transfers can be arranged to anywhere in Rajasthan

Lows

• You may get other (non-resident) tourists coming in to marvel at the view from the rooftop - a bit off-putting when you are having your breakfast
• There are no twin rooms
• And no pool – not the hotel for die-hard sun lizards
• Jaisalmer Fort is in need of extensive preservation, though now that it's off the World Monuments Watchlist, you don't need to feel so bad about staying within the fort (profits from your stay help the restoration funds)