Germany: Overview

Why go?

Often overlooked by tourists, Germany is one of Europe's least visited leisure destinations, despite having excellent air links, great value for money (Berlin is western Europe's cheapest capital), and lots to see when you arrive.

Starting with the newly resplendent city of Berlin – the most popular entry point, and the starting point for our coverage – you can explore some of the richest museums in the world, listen to the finest classical music or the latest techno trance, grab a city bicycle and follow the course of the old wall, take a boat along the river Spree past some of Europe's sleekest modern architecture, pick up the latest fashions for a snip, pause for the creamiest Kaffee und Kuchen before dining on top-notch French, Italian or Jewish cuisine (or curry-wurst and pilsner if you prefer).

In summer you can plunge into the river from one of the bathing areas, meander through the landscaped grounds of Frederick the Great's summer palace in nearby Potsdam, or sink steins at the August beer festival; in winter you can share a floating sauna, ice skate under the linden trees of the famous boulevard, or enjoy fireworks, glühwein and untacky gifts at one of the many Christmas markets. Berlin is fun, confident, diverse; it's gay-friendly and family-friendly; and it's one of the greenest cities in Europe, with woods, lakes and parks (including the huge zoo and aquarium at Tiergarten) within easy cycling reach.

Bear in mind that it's a big city – 3.5 million people and 900 km² – and you can't do it all in one weekend! Decide whether you want to stay in the former west (smarter and safer) or the east (edgier and artier) – both have some funky and exciting places to stay. Check out the multitude of airlines flying there, have a look at the events calendar, and hey presto: Du bist ein Berliner! (By the way, contrary to what you might have heard, that does not mean you are a jelly doughnut; Kennedy's grammar was right all along).

Any downsides?

It can be bitterly cold in winter and, occasionally, muggy in summer. During major fairs like ITB (early March, for travel) and IFA (early September, for electronics) it's hard to find a room. Beware: most shops don't open until midday. As with any big city, there are depressed areas, and some drugs/violence in outlying suburbs. Don't expect the homogenous beauty of Paris or Rome – much of the city was destroyed during the war and recently rebuilt in piecemeal fashion – but if you like modern architecture you'll love it. Contrary to stereotypes, Berliners are not unfriendly – but they can be direct, with a gritty sense of humour.

Activities

* Culture: Berlin's Museum Island is a Unesco Heritage site, and the Pergamon alone contains such a dazzling array of classical sculpture, reconstructed temples and eastern artwork that it deserves a day to itself

* Modern architecture: from Norman Foster's famous glass-and-mirror dome atop the Reichstag (Parliament building) to the astonishing, colour-changing canopy over the skyscrapers at Potsdamer Platz

* World-class music: not least at the Berlin Philharmonic under Sir Simon Rattle (their outdoor Waldbühne concert was one of the highlights of our year)

* Cutting-edge fashion: from cut-price designer clothing to hip-hop and techno music, Berlin is an edgy, dynamic place for the young and creative

* Poignant reminders of the past: Checkpoint Charlie (now a visitor centre), the still-half-bombed Gedächtniskirche (Memorial Church), and Daniel Libeskind's Jewish Museum, whose "wrong angles" are designed to put you off kilter

* Monumental structures: European history has been shaped at the Brandenburg Gate (which Napoleon plundered and Kennedy visited), Bebelplatz (the burning of the books) and the now-defunct wall between West and East (small parts of which remain)

* Retail therapy: from the upscale boutiques of Ku'Damm and the Harrods-like KaDeWe to the independent tailors of the Hackeschen Höfe

* Bars and nightlife: no shortage of jazz cafés, outdoor beer halls, bohemian drinking joints and buzzing dance clubs, of which Tresor is the techno-king; and German-speakers will find the cabaret tradition is alive and kicking

* Food and drink: the best sausages, beer, cakes and coffee in the world, according to the Berliners at any rate! (And they have a point).

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	Overview
	Places to Stay
	What's Where
	Berlin
	Background Info
	Travel Tips
	Getting There
	Getting Around