Gramam Homestay

Get a taste of the real Kerala by checking into this authentic and super-friendly homestay, just 10km from Fort Cochin

The warm and welcoming Neduveli family - owner Jos, his wife Lyma and their two charming boys - open their traditional Keralan home to just a few guests at a time. They've created a wonderfully relaxed and personal atmosphere, and provide a real insight into Keralan traditions and culture. Their house is on an island; a lush garden slopes past coconut palms, mango trees and shady hammocks down to the lagoons. There are two guest rooms: a single in one wing of the bungalow (the family live in the other) and a separate backwater cottage for 2-4 (which is worth the extra cost). Expect airy interiors, antique furniture, superb seafood curries and expert travel advice from Jos. He can arrange an overnight backwater cruise, a trip to a hill plantation, rafting, tiger trails, boating, or fishing with the locals.

Bustling Fort Cochin, with its antique shops, spice markets and kathakali dances is 10km away; to the north are long beaches and Chinese fishing nets. Borrow a bike and binoculars for birdwatching, sunbathe in the gardens, or just kick back in the hammock with a book. Whatever you do, at the end of the day, it really feels like you've come home.

Highs

• The hosts are helpful, kind and hugely informative about local life, politics, history and tradition
• They offer excellent tailored tours which avoid the hassle of tourist stalls and bus stations
• You'll get a genuine experience which you could never have by staying in a hotel - with wonderful home cooking too
• The backwaters setting is tranquil and meditative - especially the gorgeous cottage
• It's easily accessible - close to Fort Cochin, yet away from its hustle and pollution

Lows

• This isn't as stylish as other i-escape places, but it makes up for it with the warm welcome
• We've had reports that the Garden View Room looks tired
• The neighbouring Hindu temple has evening or early morning music, so take earplugs if you're a light sleeper
• There's not a lot to do in the evenings after dinner
• The mosquitoes can be a problem - bring lots of repellent
• Sometimes the water runs lukewarm in the shower