Grand Hotel des Bains

A sumptuous spa hotel on Brittany’s craggy Finistere coast that combines New England designer style with utter relaxation

Some hotels have location, some have style, this has both in bucketfuls. Its position overlooking the turquoise Baie de Locquirec, in Brittany’s westerly province of Finistere, is breathtaking, and either side of the rocky point you have no fewer than nine sandy beaches to choose from. French film-buffs might recognise the large, turn-of-last-century hotel: it was the setting for a 1970's Carry On-style film, before becoming a rather crusty spa resort.

Ten years ago it was taken over by the dynamic Dominique van Lier, editor of Belgian interiors magazine Eventail, who stamped the place with his impeccable New England-meets-Swedish-Gustavian style. Bedroom walls were panelled and painted in soothing moss and fern greens, floral fabrics were replaced with stylish checks, and the austere refectory transformed into an oasis of apricot and white. The atmosphere is peaceful and relaxed, both inside the hotel and its marine spa, and in its seafront gardens, which include an exquisite lime-tree alley. A great place to recharge the batteries.

Highs

• The effervescent English manager Emily, Van Lier’s daughter-in-law, and her helpful husband Harold, who inject a youthful vibe
• The 18-metre indoor swimming pool, which offers stunning sea views
• Great massages, hydrotherapy and beauty treatments in the marine spa
• There’s no road between the hotel and the sea, ensuring total tranquillity
• The luminosity of the light, especially outside summer, draws artists and writers (ask about their creative courses)

Lows

• It's larger than most i-escape hotels and, despite Dominique’s artistic touch, the corridors still feel a bit institutional
• Bedrooms could do with a refurb, and recent guests have mentioned dated bathrooms
• Younger, more dynamic types might not feel at ease here – the emphasis is on peace, and the clientele is generally an older one
• Light sleepers should avoid the church-facing rooms because of the bells
• Be aware of the sneaky supplements - for pets, cots, extra beds and first-floor terraces