HanumanAlaya

A small hotel on the quiet side of town with a glittering pool and attractive prices

For those coming to Angkor on a budget, Hanuman-Alaya provides a great base on the edge of town. It's a small lush world of gentle pleasures: fountains pour into the swimming pool, curtains of manicured jungle shield you from the outside world, and airy timber-framed interiors bring in the breeze. Grab loungers by the pool for a snooze in the sun or escape to the shade of the restaurant, where bamboo blinds and ceiling fans keep you cool. There’s also a covered balcony with low-slung Khmer sofas, and a spa for an invigorating foot massage at the end of a busy day.

The 13 spotless rooms come in traditional design with wooden floors, silky bedcovers and lots of space. The style may not be cutting-edge, but the rooms do the trick nicely and the comforts are undeniable: smartly-dressed beds, gallons of hot water in quirky pink bathrooms and Indochina’s greatest luxury: air conditioning. Elsewhere, lotus petals float in copper water jars, colourful gourds hang in the trees, orchids grow wild in a sun-trapping courtyard. You’ll find friendly staff, too.

Highs

• The soothing style of polished wood and lush greenery creates a very restful space
• The lagoon swimming pool may not be the biggest, but it’s a great spot to relax
• The super-stylish Khmer sitting room on the first-floor balcony: peace in the city with garden views
• A fabulous range of spa treatments to indulge in

Lows

• You’re on the outskirts of town; you’ll need a tuk-tuk to get into the old town
• Some of the rooms are a little dark
• The food is fine, perfect for lunch or your first night, but you’ll want to head into town most nights for the atmosphere
• The electricity cuts out occasionally, but that’s part of the fun of a journey through Cambodia