Hisa Franko

A wonderfully dramatic restaurant-with-rooms: gorgeous in décor, sublime in taste

Hiša Franko is a visual feast. As you wander into the burnt-sienna reception area, your eyes dart about, trying to take it all in. Everywhere you look there’s something to admire: fabulous modern art, an upright piano, an enormous husky dog sprawled under the radiator, lace sculptures and a chaise longue laden with plump pink cushions. The open-plan design leads straight to the crimson dining room where waiters glide past at top speed, wines are opened with a flourish and owner Valter greets guests with open arms.

But it’s not just the setting that’s theatrical. In the same vein as England’s The Fat Duck restaurant, the gourmet food is both a showpiece and an explosion of taste, created by Valter’s wife Ana. People come to Slovenia purely to eat here - yet it’s buzzy and friendly rather than pretentious. Better still, when replete you can trot upstairs to one of the 13 bedrooms rather than drive home. They may not be the focus of the place, but they’re very lovely: airy and light with contemporary décor and sink-into beds. All in all, it gets a standing ovation from us.

Highs

• Based in the stunning Soca Valley, just outside historic Kobarid - a pretty little town with a fascinating history and whole range of activities on offer
• Beautifully presented food in small taster plates - probably the best meal I’ve ever had, and a real experience
• Equally good for couples, groups and families - Ana can rustle up special kids’ versions of the food if required
• The 'gallery' feel; different styles of art and sculpture fill every space
• Rooms 9 and 10 lead onto a shared balcony; a wonderful place for an aperitif or digestif
• Ana, Valter and their staff are absolutely charming; very thoughtful, attentive and generous

Lows

• You wouldn’t want to eat here more than 2 nights in a row; the food is amazing but it’s rich
• Fans of hearty non-fussy food won't be pleased
• Expensive by Slovenian standards
• Some bathrooms are set within the bedroom rather than being separate