Hospes Palacio del Bailio

A fabulous mix of 21st-century style and 16th-century architecture offering chic rooms, ancient frescoes, great food and Roman baths

When you book a holiday, you tend to choose your location, then find a hotel. But sometimes a hotel is a destination in its own right – like the Hospes Palacio del Bailio in Córdoba. Hidden amongst narrow back streets in this pretty Moorish town, the 16th-century building is a serious stunner. Set around 2 courtyards, it has white marble corridors, keyhole windows, faded frescoes and tall wood shutters. Rose and bronze chaise longues line the walls; fairy lights are woven into funky white balls.

The bedrooms tick all the boutique boxes and then some. Marble bathrooms with double sinks, fluffy robes, rain showers and Korres products; kingsize beds with velvet headboards and crisp white linen; trompe l'oeil murals and soaring arches – they’re gorgeous. But it’s the dining area that really blew us away, set in an indoor courtyard, with a glass dome roof... you’re wowed even before you look down to see floodlit Roman ruins peeking through the glass floor. As for the food, it's equally divine. And the fact you've got a UNESCO-listed Roman Moorish town on your doorstep is the icing on the cake.

Highs

• There’s a glorious blend of old and new in the decor: cool lighting and stylish flower displays contrasted by arched architecture, keyhole doorways and the Roman ruins below the restaurant
• A tranquil outdoor courtyard filled with orange and lemon trees, low hedges and a small swimming pool
• Fab experimental food - both dinner and breakfast were excellent, plus there's a tapas bar on-site
• Bodyna spa with one of the oldest Roman thermal baths in town
• Within walking distance of the Mezquita, one of the world's most stunning pieces of Moorish-Christian architecture

Lows

• Although our room was very quiet, the street-facing rooms can be noisy
• It's hard to find, even with a map. Consider parking on the outskirts of town and taking a taxi to the hotel, especially because...
• ...the hotel parking is €18 a day; a bit of a shock when you check out
• Our air con was intermittent
• Cordoba can get very busy - and very hot - but the hotel's tranquil courts and pool are a godsend