Hotel Casa de la Real Aduana

Art, music, greenery and 5 perfect rooms come together in an enchanting colonial mansion in the heart of Patzcuaro

The first Royal Customs House of the Pacific Coast was built in Patzcuaro, in the 1540s. In perfect hacienda style, with a wraparound veranda and a sunny central courtyard, it's a gem of colonial architecture. In 2004 it opened as an intimate hotel - one of the best in Mexico, thanks to its artist owners Gemma and Didier. All who stay are captivated by the art, which ranges from a funky collection of Mexican dolls to an exquisite carving of the Virgin and Child. From the lemon verbena tea brought to your room in the evening to breakfasts at the long table by the open fire, the attention to detail is enchanting. The casa may not be open to children, but this is in no way a precious period piece.

Time your visit if you can to coincide with a recital - perhaps rousing classical guitar on the candlelit patio, or a piano solo in the hotel's music room. The situation, too, cannot be faulted, a step from the Plaza Grande. Best of all, you're made to feel at home from the moment you arrive.

Highs

• Warm, gracious and artistic owners
• Exquisite restoration of a listed house
• Fascinating collection of art and crafts from all eras
• Enchanting patios and a central courtyard garden
• Regular concerts in the music room or on the veranda
• Loving attention paid to every detail

Lows

• Children aren't welcome
• There are noisy firecrackers when religious festivals take place in town - a small price to pay!