Hotel El Manantial del Silencio

A peaceful retreat in colonial-style splendour, stunningly situated in Purmamarca, the most idyllic village in the Quebrada de Humahuaca, 2 hours north of Jujuy

Fling wide the windows in the morning: the view from your room is the vivid red, cream, green and aubergine rock of the celebrated Cerro de Siete Colores (the 'Rock of Seven Colours'), peeping between golden fringes of tall poplars beyond the quiet village of Purmamarca.

Since the spectacular 150-mile valley of Quebrada de Humahuaca was declared a World Heritage site, hotels have mushroomed in the main towns of Tilcara and Humahuaca. Purmamarca alone remains blissfully tranquil, despite a trickle of tourists perusing the handicrafts market in the plaza. El Manantial del Silencio is in keeping with its spirit: a colonial white monastic-style building, with spare wrought iron details. Inside, luxury comes in wide spaces, flamboyantly coloured locally woven rugs, carved wood and 19 comfortable bedrooms and a separate house. The cuisine is award-winning and the pool is gorgeous. The elegant simplicity here instills a powerful sense of peace, allowing you to unwind and absorb the ancient serenity of Andean culture. This hotel truly lives up to its name: 'the wellspring of silence'.

Highs

• The setting is glorious - nowhere else in this valley, deeply carved by the Rio Grande in Jujuy province, can you enjoy such superb views
• The style is luxurious - a clever combination of peaceful simplicity in the décor, but with real comfort: excellent beds, good bathrooms and a welcoming lounge
• The food is excellent - chef Sergio Latorre was invited to Italy’s Slow Food event for his reinvention of local dishes
• The swimming pool - viable only in summer months - is beautifully set with 360º views of surrounding mountains
• The exquisite Purmamarca church, stunning hikes around the Cerro de Siete Coloresand and magnificent salt flats all lie within a 90-minute drive
• Cycling and horse riding are offered through the manager’s travel company, Sendas Andinas

Lows

• The service can be patchy at times: the restaurant staff are excellent, but don’t expect top-hotel service on reception. The pace of life is slow in the Quebrada, and you might need to adjust!
• It's a chance to practise your Spanish: few staff speak English
• This is a place to retreat from the modern world:don't expect all the mod cons
• It's not the cheapest hotel in the area, but it's certainly the nicest