Hotel Nord-Pinus Tanger

A sumptuous ocean-facing bolthole at the highest point in the kasbah - style with a big twist of romance

Tangier's hilltop kasbah has long been a magnet for writers, artists and dreaming dilettantes. Amongst its many illustrious converts are socialite Barbara Hutton, millionaire Malcolm Forbes, the Beat Poets and the Rolling Stones; all fell under the spell of its narrow alleys, souks and diminutive squares where life and colour are ever-present. So too did Anne Igou, owner of one of southern France's most boho hotels, and good fortune led her to the kasbah's highest building. Today, after an inspired renovation, Nord Pinus is once again fit for the Pacha who once made this his home.

Twin staircases wind up 6 floors past a grand salon marocain, the 5 guest suites and a bar-cum-sitting room to 4 lofty terraces which look out across old Tangier, the port and the glittering Straits: there can be few more magical spots than this. Come for that whiff of temps perdu, the utter romance of the place, and for a stay that is bound to inspire dreams of a longer sojourn in the Maghreb.

Highs

• The exhilarating terraces-with-a-view
• Masses of communal space shared by just 5 suites: you'll always find an intimate spot, both inside and out
• Moroccan staff are discreet, charming and genuinely keen to help: their caring goes beyond duty of the fawning kind
• A jazzy decorative pot-pourri of Italian and French designer objets and furniture, as well as the ornate craftmanship of North Africa

Lows

• This is an expensive treat: we felt the 3 ocean-facing suites warranted the splurge but not the suite and room with courtyard views
• Service was a tad shambolic when we stayed but the romance of the dining experience, and its market-based cuisine, won us over
• Expect the price of bar drinks and wine to be as lofty as those glorious terraces