Hotel Syrou Melathron

A smartly refurbished Neoclassical residence in the most colourful, bustling, underrated port of the Cyclades islands

Most people island-hopping in the Cyclades have a checklist something like this: Santorini's volcano (tick), sunsets (tick) and Minoan ruins (tick); Mykonos' shops (tick), nightlife (tick) and ancient Delos (tick); Paros or Naxos for beaches (tick) and white villages (tick). Then back home via Athens (tick) and the Acropolis (tick). Great holiday. 10/10.

But if you want to give yourself a bonus question, add Syros to your itinerary. Its capital is a bustling, elegant harbour with Neoclassical civic buildings, stylish eateries and a labyrinthine hilltown of Catholic churches and colourful houses. Ermoupolis was Greece’s marine hub in the 19th century, and it's still more of a working island than a tourist resort. The shops stock fresh food instead of souvenirs. The visitors are wealthy weekending Athenians. But don’t worry, you’ll still find sandy beaches and buzzing bars. And charming hotels, the best of which is this restored captain's mansion on the seafront of Vaporia. I make that 11/11.

Highs

• Lovely roof terrace with sea views (above)
• Comfortable, well-equipped bedrooms
• Easy island to reach by sea or air
• Isolated sandy beaches in the north
• Stunning architecture and churches on your doorstep

Lows

• The bedroom décor is rather bland
• It’s busy, especially in July and August
• Some traffic noise (a road runs past the front)