Hotel Cocoon

Highly stylized homage to modernism, this ultra quirky 'spaceship' hotel is just a short distance from one of Salvador's best beaches

I must admit this hotel, which opened in 2006, came as a shock to me. Not so much the starkness of the concrete contrasting with the vibrant orange curtains and citrus uniforms of the staff. Nor was it the feeling that I was staying in a futuristic version of a 1950s American motel. Not even being addressed as an astronaut in keeping with the owner's spaceship theme. To be honest, it was the fact that this incredibly modern design marvel was bang in the middle of a dusty middle-class suburb - complete with an Esso garage - with a half-finished building next door and a busy road 100 yards away.

Never judge a book by its cover though. By the time I left, this place had really, really grown on me. Staff are friendly, it has a fantastic (if small) pool and it's a 5-minute walk to one of the best beaches in town (Praia da Jaguaribe) where you can drink fresh coconut juice and try surfing or kite-surfing. And, as I came to realise, you get a more authentic slice of Brazilian life, away from the city's touristy parts, whilst staying in a really unique building. First impressions aren't always binding.

Highs

• Cutting-edge modern design: think retro, futuristic and slightly camp
• A great pool that changes colour every 5 seconds and a cool cocktail lounge alongside it
• Very friendly staff and Italian-inspired food
• Glass-topped bathrooms so you can see the sun and stars while showering
• Only 10 minutes from the airport

Lows

• The stark, concrete design is one you'll either love or hate. Traditionalists will find the minimalism a turn-off
• The views aren't the best: ie the Esso garage or the half-finished apartment next door
• You're a 30-minute taxi ride from the historical Pelourinho district