Hotel Santa Maria

A secluded oasis in Trastevere, Rome’s most charming and buzzing district, with rooms surrounding a cloister full of orange trees

Hidden down a driveway lined with ivy, this is a haven of peace in Italy’s scooter-whirring, sight-packed capital. Glossy-leafed orange trees shade the scrunchy-gravel courtyard at its centre - a glorious summery retreat with flowers and myrtle bushes. Around it are 18 bungalow-style rooms, including some huge family suites. It's a conversion of a 17th-century convent, but feels thoroughly modern.

Trastevere is Rome’s loveliest and liveliest neighbourhood, a cobbled maze of lanes filled with bars, restaurants and small shops. Like Paris' Left Bank, you find long-term locals mingling with map-flapping tourists, American students, boho alternative types and the occasional homeless person with a dog on a string. The district’s café-ringed main piazza, glinting with magnificent medieval mosaics, is just around the corner. Despite its prime location, Santa Maria is peaceful, the only disturbances being church bells, courtyard chatter and the occasional vivid Italian discussion issuing from the flower-laden apartments around.

Highs

• Gorgeous courtyard: a peaceful retreat in a busy city
• Wonderful location within walking distance of many sights, plus great restaurants and bars
• Huge family suites will sleep up to 6
• Friendly, extremely helpful staff
• Excellent breakfasts under the orange trees
• Free walking tours around the city

Lows

• Windows open onto the courtyard so if you want privacy you’ll have to draw the curtains
• Don't expect designer decor: this is pretty pastels and rustic charm
• Some very low ceilings in the bedrooms
• The Mansard suite (room 22) has skylights rather than windows