Hotel Signum

Pretty country-house hotel in the languid village of Malfa, with big pool, fragrant gardens and inspiring sea views.

If you thought the Aeolian Islands were all about summer crowds, noisy parties and arid landscapes, then think again. Tucked away on the quiet side of Salina, the largest and greenest of the 7 islands, the Signum lies half-hidden among Malfa's citrus groves, flowery fields and winding lanes. From its jasmine-scented gardens and sunset-facing terrace, you look up to looming peaks and down over indigo seas - which are 10 mins away, if you fancy a dip.

The hotel itself – a restored residence with newer pastel-coloured extensions – has something of the French country house in its sofa'd drawing room, oil paintings, fer forgé beds and balconies opening onto blossom and birdsong. Bedrooms may lack the contemporary chic of the Capofaro or the party vibe of the Raya, but they're spacious, comfy, elegant (in an old-fashioned, rustic way) - and half the price. It's also family-run, family-friendly and refreshingly unselfconscious, with a long 8-month season which appeals to discerning travellers.

Highs

• Superb home-cooked food at the open-air restaurant, praised on a recent visit by Jamie Oliver
• Welcoming family owners and good service from 20+ young staff
• A secluded retreat from the summer crowds
• Beautiful gardens, big (though rather enclosed) pool, and terrace-bar with views to Stromboli
• Well-placed for boat-trips, hikes and gorgeous Pollara beach (the cast stayed here when filming Il Postino)
• New spa with thermal steam baths, mineral-rich hydrotherapy and intoxicating beauty treatments

Lows

• Most 'classic' rooms have garden views; for sea views you need to pay extra
• Bedrooms, though charming, are quite simple and rustic
• Pool gets busy in summer
• There are occasional (small) groups, and some rooms get noise from the breakfast area