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Why go? Everyone's familiar with Italy - home of pizza and pasta, of Chianti and spumante, of passion and fashion, of Totti and Pavarotti. It's got art, architecture, style, good food and fine wines. It's full of surprises, like an immaculately-coiffed signora unfolding herself from a tiny Fiat. It's not short of history - just remember what those Romans have done for us! And it's got some fabulous places to stay. There's so much to see that for now we've concentrated on the highlights. The capital, Rome, is arguably the historic heart of Europe: birthplace of its greatest empire, home of Catholicism, the city all roads lead to. But it also has a youthful vibe, lively bars and streetlife, and great retail therapy - all in all, a perfect city break (several times over!). Two more cities you have to see before you die are: Venice, a dreamy waterscape of elegant canals and exuberant palaces, beloved by artists, historians, romancers and carnival-goers; and Florence, the regional capital of Tuscany and - some would say - the artistic capital of Europe, with several of its finest galleries. Nestling in the heart of the mainland, Tuscany and Umbria are just how you picture rural Italy: rolling landscapes with vine-rich valleys and cypress-crested ridges; historic hilltowns with medieval palazzi and glorious churches; a healthy diet, a moderate climate... it's no wonder the Renaissance took root here. But where is the new Tuscany? Perhaps Puglia, the heel of Italy's boot; there's plenty of history and architecture - Moorish hilltowns, Roman theatres, rustic trulli (cone-huts), the Baroque gem of Lecce - with the added bonus of sandy beaches and superb cuisine. Northern Italians flock here in summer, and there are pockets of Cote d'azur trendiness. If you want to escape all that, head to Sicily, the largest island in the Med. There's enough coastline for everyone, some outstanding Baroque towns in the southeast (our favourite corner), plus a hulking great volcano (Mt. Etna) and unspoilt mountains (the Madonie). To escape still further, take a boat to the Aeolian Islands, 7 volcanic lumps sticking like fangs out of the Tyrrhenian Sea, with unfeasibly clear waters, pretty whitewashed villages and youthful summer crowds. And let's not forget the 'most beautiful coastline in the world': the Amalfi Coast, where uber-pretty villages cling to terraced hillsides above a roller-coaster of azure coves. Combined with neighbouring Naples (a great and gritty city) and Pompeii (the best preserved Roman town in the world), it makes a fabulous week's holiday. Any downsides? Tuscany gets busy from April through September; coastal regions are packed to bursting in August and, to a lesser extent, July. Venice gets even more crowded than usual in April and October; book ahead and expect queues at museums. Some parts of 'Chiantishire' are being taken over by expat Brits, and can feel a bit manicured. It’s expensive by Mediterranean standards - especially Venice. Our reviews say what we thought overpriced, and what was worth every lira (sorry, euro-cent). It's hot in midsummer, especially the cities (Florence, Rome, Venice) and Sicily. Be prepared for long meals rich in pasta and meats - or just say basta! |
Activities Art and architecture: Venice is chock-a-block with art collections, palaces and churches, including the Basilica of St. Mark. Florence boasts the unrivalled Uffizi and Bargello galleries, Lucca the best-preserved city walls, Pisa the world-famous leaning tower, Siena the most delightful piazza, Arezzo the Piero della Francesca frescoes. In almost any Italian town you'll find Renaissance paintings and churches, plus an Etruscan tomb or medieval fort. Wine-tasting: throughout Tuscany you can taste and buy the world-class reds of Chianti and the crete (Montalcino, Montepulciano), and the improving whites and proseccos. Shopping: From stylish boutiques to weekly produce markets, you can buy the best in shoes, leather, clothes, cheese, cured meats, chocolates, wines; and there are factory outlets for Prada, Armani, Gucci etc. Hiking and cycling: the undulating landscapes of southern Tuscany and the wooded hills of Umbria are laced with strade bianche (farm tracks) and red-and-white waymarked paths. Many of our featured hotels offer mountain bikes and suggested walks. Touring: winding country lanes and cypress-lined avenues make driving a pleasure. The routes over Monte Subasio and the Umbrian Apennines are breath-taking; Chianti and the crete are postcard-pretty Horse-riding: several of our suggested hotels and villas have stables nearby Cooking: there’s nothing more therapeutic than kneading gnocchi or rolling out ravioli! Some hotels offer 3- or 6-day cookery courses, or single lessons Thermal spas: Take the waters at Bagno Vignoni, Chianciano, Saturnia etc Watersports: sail, windsurf or take a boat cruise on Umbria’s Lake Trasimeno Beaches and islands: Tuscany has 250km of coastline, from the popular beach of Viareggio to the virgin sands of the Monti Uccellina Coastal Park. Ferries sail from Livorno and Piombino to the Tuscan isles of Elba and Giglio as well as Sardinia Current time/weather In Florence:  |
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