Kalundewa Retreat

Superbly designed modern chalet, stilted over a lake and surrounded by beautiful paddies, offering total seclusion (sleeps 2-6)

Leaving behind dusty Dambulla, the road winds its way through mountains and lush paddy fields, leading into a long avenue lined with pomegranate and mango trees. This is the entrance to architectural gem Kalundewa, hidden within a 100-acre retreat in Sri Lanka’s rural heart.

Reaching the reception area, a high-design structure with trees growing through the slanted roof, you begin to see how Kalundewa has created a unique harmony between modern architecture and the natural world. And a glimpse between foliage exposes an almost incongruous sight: on a marshy lake, concealed by wispy trees, is a stark, angular structure. Steel beams and vast panels of glass glint in the dappled sunlight; jagged wooden decking juts outwards. Whether you approach it by raft across the water, or via a stroll through a banana grove, the impact is the same: a massive wow factor. The building soars high and an open split-level living area has a fabulous wraparound view.

Outside, a plunge-pool jacuzzi bubbles welcomingly. Inside, 2 sleek bedrooms are a hybrid of exposed brick walls, wooden sliding doors and chunky steel fittings. But despite the modern setting, it's nature that steals the show. This is a seriously peaceful place, and you get it all to yourself.

Highs

• The feeling of remoteness and solitude, far from the tourist groups
• Great for honeymooners, couples or a small party wanting undisturbed relaxation - if one bedroom is booked, the other will not be unless you are a group
• Delicious food, much of it home-grown (rice, vegetables, fruit), and served whenever you want
• A nature lover's paradise: birds flit past in dashes of colour, frogs burp contently, and the lake splashes as a water monitor cools off
• Gorgeous walks and bicycle rides through agricultural scenery

Lows

• Service is friendly but quite informal, and sometimes there are no staff on duty
• Recent feedback suggests the house is beginning to look a little worn around the edges, but it remains stunning nevertheless
• No alcohol license, although guests are allowed to bring liquor; not for party people
• Full prepayment required at time of booking and a 3% surcharge on credit card payments
• Set meals: be prepared to eat a lot of yummy rice and curry