Kasbah du Toubkal

A sustainably run hilltop kasbah, set majestically amid north Africa’s highest mountains, offering supported treks

Question: how is it possible to take off from a London airport and within 6 hours be looking out at a mountain landscape of Tibetan grandeur and isolation? Answer: go to Morocco. More precisely, go to the unique hilltop kasbah-fort set at the base of Mt. Toubkal in the high Atlas, an epic journey that takes in plane, bus, jeep and finally a short walk. It may take just half a day but it will transport you to a different world.

Sitting on the carpeted rooftop terrace in your loaned leather ‘babouches’ (slippers) and hooded woollen ‘djelaba’ (cloak), nodding wordlessly at the smiling Berber men who bring mint tea and freshly-picked nuts, staring up at snow-dusted peaks and down on stone-coloured villages, a wave of emotions inevitably washes over you: excitement at the discoveries ahead, tranquil disconnection from the stress behind, and awe at the majesty of it all. It may not be Tibet, but, as Martin Scorsese discovered when he filmed part of his movie Kundun here, it comes pretty close.

Highs

• The magnificent setting on a remote hilltop in the midst north Africa’s highest mountains; from the panoramic roof terrace you look down on 3 valleys fringed with green orchards and earth-coloured hamlets
• It's an ideal base for hikes of all levels in the High Atlas, from a gentle 6-day package to the 2-day ascent of Toubkal itself
• We applaud the cultural sensitivity with which it is run – it employs locals, funds the Village Association and has won a Green Globe for sustainable tourism
• It offers a huge variety of accommodation options, from budget dorms to ensuite rooms to a self-contained house for 6; or book the whole lodge (sleeps 20-40) with a large group of friends!
• Hikers have exclusive access to their Azzaden trekking lodge, reached by a half- or full day's hike from the kasbah - the comfiest mountain refuge imaginable, with excellent beds and ensuite bathrooms

Lows

• You have to walk the last 15 minutes (or get on a mule), but hopefully this will attract rather than deter you)
• Be aware that the cheaper rooms in Dar Imlil are situated in the village of Imlil, 15 minutes below the main kasbah
• The kasbah's dormitory accommodation is basic and headroom very limited on the mezzanine, but it does provide a good budget option
• Prices are distinctly European (compared with other local spots) but you do get some of the best rooftop views in north Africa, and a percentage of profits goes to local projects
• It's not licensed, so if you need a post-trek beer, you'll need to bring it with you from Marrakech